[NovatoriusRex]

Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

For those of you who were following my tales of my Nova's re-emergence on Steve's Site, after the drivetrain rebuild, at the local Dragstrips, this update may be of interest.

I checked the driver's side bank of plugs and found almost all of to be PERFECT. A faint rusty tint on each one, except for #7, which was a bit pale in comparison. I could probably richen it up (primary jets or secondary metering plate??) just a tad and not do too much damage to the overall tune.

The biggest thing I found wrong was that the timing had advanced itself to 14* BTDC. :clonk: I backed it off to 11* and I'll try the track again soon.

Thanks for listening.

 

[DriveWFO]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

Where's your total timing now? Make sure you plug the disconnected the vacuum advance line and plug it while checking your timing.

 

[NovatoriusRex]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

Where's your total timing now? Make sure you plug the disconnected the vacuum advance line and plug it while checking your timing.

Total timing now should be 11 initial + 21 mechanical = 32 total. Initial was measured with the vacuum advance disconnected and the port on the carb plugged.

 

[Guest]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

Do A Burn Out !!!

 

[72GreenRally]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

Do A Burn Out !!!

John, is that an indecent proposal??

Randy (gotta stop these nightmareshade pictures in my head!!!):clonk:

 

[Repointer]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

Hey Brent,

Keep an eye on your MPH at the track, that will tell you how much total advance your engine likes best. I always take my light with me, if you don't have yours out there feel free to borrow it. I was running around 35 total my first trip out and then switched to 38 last weekend and picked up about one MPH. Don't sound like much, but probably around 10 HP.

I'm going out to PIR Friday and gonna try and hook myself down to mid 12's.:hurray:

 

[DriveWFO]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

Hey Brent,

Keep an eye on your MPH at the track, that will tell you how much total advance your engine likes best. I always take my light with me, if you don't have yours out there feel free to borrow it. I was running around 35 total my first trip out and then switched to 38 last weekend and picked up about one MPH. Don't sound like much, but probably around 10 HP.

I'm going out to PIR Friday and gonna try and hook myself down to mid 12's.:hurray:

Chris, I'm suprised you're new Vortec heads like that much total timing. What octane are you running? My sweet spot has been 34*.

 

[69NovaSS]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

Chris, I'm suprised you're new Vortec heads like that much total timing. What octane are you running? My sweet spot has been 34*.

were Chris's heads not Aluminum? Possibly that effects how much total timming you can run...

 

[Repointer]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

Chris, I'm suprised you're new Vortec heads like that much total timing. What octane are you running? My sweet spot has been 34*.

Yea, she seems to like the 38*. Once I get traction I will be doing more with plugs and jetting so it could change. Good old Chevron Supreme 92 octane.:thumbsup:

Decided not to spring for the aluminum on this motor. I'll save that for when I build a new motor. Good to see you back Duane. I was getting worried.:waving:

 

[69NovaSS]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

Good to see you back Duane. I was getting worried.:waving:

Well the cable modem took a crap last tuesday night and the repair guy just got here this morning...took him all of 10 minutes to swap in a new modem...thanks a lot Chris...I'm glad to be back....I wasnt sure anyone actually noticed I was gone

 

[NovatoriusRex]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

Yea, she seems to like the 38*. Once I get traction I will be doing more with plugs and jetting so it could change. Good old Chevron Supreme 92 octane.:thumbsup:

Could the RHS vortecs be different enough from the GM vortecs that they'll take more total timing?

 

[Nova_Guy]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

My bet is that 38* is relative to your setup. It doesn't take much swapping around to vary the timing by 1-5 degrees by the balancer. You start adding in aftermarket parts and and lots of swapping around things get moved around.
Then what do I know! :clonk:

 

[NovatoriusRex]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

I took an hour or so last night to give the car a final check-over to make sure my 6 passes down the dragstrip hadn't done any damage. I was hearing strange sounds from the passenger side head that turned out to be the header bolts being loose. A quick recheck of all of the header bolts fixed that.

I pulled out the plugs on the passenger side head also and found them all to look just about the same as the plugs in the driver's side head. They all had faint traces of rusty looking residue on them. :hurray: I think the next time out at the track, I'll have to play with timing and maybe jet-up a bit to see what the car really likes. The plug color was very light "rusty" with areas of white, so I think I may be running a bit lean at WOT throttle, but not enough to detonate.

I can't decide whether to invest in a set of real slicks or a set of drag radials at this point. While changing wheels at the track is a PITB, I'm thinking I'll get better results from a stickier race-only tire. Opinions?

 

[DriveWFO]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

I can't decide whether to invest in a set of real slicks or a set of drag radials at this point. While changing wheels at the track is a PITB, I'm thinking I'll get better results from a stickier race-only tire. Opinions?

If you drive with the DOT slicks, they wear out faster (duh!). I don't have a problem hooking up with my ET Streets. If you want to race in a street-legal class, you'll need a DOT slick.

 

[72GreenRally]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

How much of a traction problem do you have now?

A tire roasting smoke show that will make Johnny cheer?:hurray: Or, just a llttle slip and squeal?:boring:

Randy (C'mon Brent!!! Details!!!)

 

[NovatoriusRex]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

My rear tires right now are 245 BFG T/A Radials. They roasted themselves pretty good launching at the track and contributed to my initial runs at 14.4. A set of 8" slicks bolted on the next night resulted in a best of 13.1 and still there was a bit of spin, but nowhere near as much as with the street radials. I know I need some non-tire traction assistance too if I really want to make a tire work well in this car.

I really doubt the BFGs will ever make me happy at the track, but they will make for a nice tire roasting show soon. I'd have pics/movies of it already, but I forgot to bring my camera to the track last weekend.

I haven't put much thought into what class to race the car in; I'm still well away from having to worry about that. The street class may be appropriate, but not if I can't run a decently sticky tire/slick. I guess if WFO can get decent traction with an ET Street (radial?), then a drag radial/street tire combo may be appropriate. I do plan on driving the car on the street most of the time, so a tire that's going to wear quickly when left on the car all the time may not be appropriate for me. The effort needed to swap wheels/tires to put on a drag approprioate tire isn't large and I won't be racing every weekend.

 

[DriveWFO]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

My rear tires right now are 245 BFG T/A Radials. They roasted themselves pretty good launching at the track and contributed to my initial runs at 14.4. A set of 8" slicks bolted on the next night resulted in a best of 13.1 and still there was a bit of spin, but nowhere near as much as with the street radials. I know I need some non-tire traction assistance too if I really want to make a tire work well in this car.

I really doubt the BFGs will ever make me happy at the track, but they will make for a nice tire roasting show soon. I'd have pics/movies of it already, but I forgot to bring my camera to the track last weekend.

I haven't put much thought into what class to race the car in; I'm still well away from having to worry about that. The street class may be appropriate, but not if I can't run a decently sticky tire/slick. I guess if WFO can get decent traction with an ET Street (radial?), then a drag radial/street tire combo may be appropriate. I do plan on driving the car on the street most of the time, so a tire that's going to wear quickly when left on the car all the time may not be appropriate for me. The effort needed to swap wheels/tires to put on a drag approprioate tire isn't large and I won't be racing every weekend.

I bought a set of steel wheels from my local junkyard, blasted them and rattle canned 'em black. I used to have my slicks on those and would swap them on at the track. That may make the most sense for you at this point.

 

[Repointer]

Re: Update to last week's "first time post-rebuild" story

The M/T ET's worked great for me. I am having a little problem right now, but I don't attribute it to the tires unless there are just too worn. I will have it figured out soon. (Hopefully tonight.:thumbsup: ) They are great cause I just leave em on and drive to and from the track. If you do a lot of driving probably will get expensive though.

I can't remember your 60' but the best I could do with those tires last year and my 2200 stall was around a 1.85 60'. That was with NO wheel spin on my best day. To get better than that I had to up my launch RPM and add more power.