tuning cal-tracs
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I don't have any real experience either. bump this to top, maybe one of the guys who has these will chip in.
I have spent some time tuning my Cal-tracs, problem is, I'm running street tires. If you are on slicks, I don't think I'll be much help. Here's what I got though.
When I installed mine I had them too tight. Everytime I hit the gas the tires blew off. The cure was to adjust them so there was room for a nickel to fit between the spring and the spring stop bolt. The tracs where hitting too hard and blowing the street tires before enough weight had transferred. I am using the lower hole.
When I installed mine I had them too tight. Everytime I hit the gas the tires blew off. The cure was to adjust them so there was room for a nickel to fit between the spring and the spring stop bolt. The tracs where hitting too hard and blowing the street tires before enough weight had transferred. I am using the lower hole.
I will be installing CalTracs on my car this week along with the Split Mono leaf springs form Calvert.
I hope to be racing it again in a couple of weeks, so as I learn what it want's I'll chime back in.
I also have anew driveline vibration that has cropped up, and I need to see what's up with that as well. Happens right before the finish line....not fun.
So tell us more about the car. Engine, ET?, MPH?, Shocks? Springs? Tires?
You know the good stuff.
Ron
I hope to be racing it again in a couple of weeks, so as I learn what it want's I'll chime back in.
I also have anew driveline vibration that has cropped up, and I need to see what's up with that as well. Happens right before the finish line....not fun.
So tell us more about the car. Engine, ET?, MPH?, Shocks? Springs? Tires?
You know the good stuff.
Ron
Youre the first person to ask, so sure..............
I purchased a stock zz 502, put on a 825 race demon, and went racing a couple times 2 yrs ago, best was 11.80 @114 in 1/4 and 7.46 at 92 in the 1/8. Then the tranny blew, so I beefed up the rear end, changed cams,
put a new tranny in it, new converter, new carb,new intake,roller rockers,
and I'm sure other things I cannot think of, and the car went 10.91 at 125
off the trailer, jetted down 2 sizes and went 10.81, at 126, but this is with my best 60ft of 1.53. Thats the performance side of it, heres some specs:
zz502
crower .612 .636 .248 253 @.050
air gap intake
comp cams stainless roller rockers
1050 race demon (best deal ever on e-bay 400.00) brand new removeable sleeve version)
turbo 350 Heavily beefed up art carr components
tight 3200 9.5 converter
3.73 10 bolt, (Beefed up, but who knows how long it will last)
dont know the weight of the car, guessing around 3400lbs?
Thats most of the things I can think of, nothing special really.has great driveability,need to tune the carb a bit more, among other things.
And Ron, thanks for the interest I have followed your posts over at chevelle tech, and Love your car!!!!!!!
I purchased a stock zz 502, put on a 825 race demon, and went racing a couple times 2 yrs ago, best was 11.80 @114 in 1/4 and 7.46 at 92 in the 1/8. Then the tranny blew, so I beefed up the rear end, changed cams,
put a new tranny in it, new converter, new carb,new intake,roller rockers,
and I'm sure other things I cannot think of, and the car went 10.91 at 125
off the trailer, jetted down 2 sizes and went 10.81, at 126, but this is with my best 60ft of 1.53. Thats the performance side of it, heres some specs:
zz502
crower .612 .636 .248 253 @.050
air gap intake
comp cams stainless roller rockers
1050 race demon (best deal ever on e-bay 400.00) brand new removeable sleeve version)
turbo 350 Heavily beefed up art carr components
tight 3200 9.5 converter
3.73 10 bolt, (Beefed up, but who knows how long it will last)
dont know the weight of the car, guessing around 3400lbs?
Thats most of the things I can think of, nothing special really.has great driveability,need to tune the carb a bit more, among other things.
And Ron, thanks for the interest I have followed your posts over at chevelle tech, and Love your car!!!!!!!
Wow, huge improvement you made! You must have been pleased!
As near as I can tell you did the right stuff.
I'm wondering though....with a 1.53 and 126 trap speed, I think you should have been closer to a 10.5 or 10.6? Are you shifting it too high?
These big engines don't care if you shift at 5500 or 6000 from 1-2. 6500 would be pushing it I think. Just curious because my buddys Chevelle went 10.64 @ 126 with a 1.57 60 ft. He is right at 3500 lbs as well. 502 with a similar cam and AFR heads. (He copied me!)
I assume you run slicks?
Good shocks help. As do loose front springs, good shocks up front as well.
10 bolt is an 8.5". Very much the same as the 12 bolt. If it's the 8.2", I'd be changing it.
Thanks for the comments about my car. Much appreciated. Your car sounds equally as cool!
I hang out over at TC because of the Big Block freaks there. Also at Team Camaro...beacuse after all, they are leaf spring cars.
Us Nova guys are outnumbered though. Pays to be different.
Anyway, keep tweaking. Try a bit leaner jet. Fiddle withthe timing. 38 total works well, maybe even more.
Keep good records.
I think you are on the right track all the way.
Ron
As near as I can tell you did the right stuff.
I'm wondering though....with a 1.53 and 126 trap speed, I think you should have been closer to a 10.5 or 10.6? Are you shifting it too high?
These big engines don't care if you shift at 5500 or 6000 from 1-2. 6500 would be pushing it I think. Just curious because my buddys Chevelle went 10.64 @ 126 with a 1.57 60 ft. He is right at 3500 lbs as well. 502 with a similar cam and AFR heads. (He copied me!)
I assume you run slicks?
Good shocks help. As do loose front springs, good shocks up front as well.
10 bolt is an 8.5". Very much the same as the 12 bolt. If it's the 8.2", I'd be changing it.
Thanks for the comments about my car. Much appreciated. Your car sounds equally as cool!
I hang out over at TC because of the Big Block freaks there. Also at Team Camaro...beacuse after all, they are leaf spring cars.
Us Nova guys are outnumbered though. Pays to be different.
Anyway, keep tweaking. Try a bit leaner jet. Fiddle withthe timing. 38 total works well, maybe even more.
Keep good records.
I think you are on the right track all the way.
Ron
Thanks Ron...
Yeah 8.5 10 bolt, I have a tranny brake in the car as well, have not used it though. I ran these times with mt's new dragradial, and full exhaust shifting about 56001st 5900 2nd. Have cheap dragshocks in front, want to upgrade, the car just doesn't seem to transfer well, not spinning, but not moving a whole lot either, oh yeah and I also put in those rancho 9000, shocks, they did seem to help. I was watching bracket racing on tv, and there was couple cars running 10.50's and high 10. 40's at 125 with 60ft in the high 1.40's, so I know theres big room for improvement, and I also drive my car to and from the track.
Us nova guys need to stick together, cause we are outnumbered.................
Yeah 8.5 10 bolt, I have a tranny brake in the car as well, have not used it though. I ran these times with mt's new dragradial, and full exhaust shifting about 56001st 5900 2nd. Have cheap dragshocks in front, want to upgrade, the car just doesn't seem to transfer well, not spinning, but not moving a whole lot either, oh yeah and I also put in those rancho 9000, shocks, they did seem to help. I was watching bracket racing on tv, and there was couple cars running 10.50's and high 10. 40's at 125 with 60ft in the high 1.40's, so I know theres big room for improvement, and I also drive my car to and from the track.
Us nova guys need to stick together, cause we are outnumbered.................
I'd probably shift a bit higher, especially into 3rd.
Your short block is stout.
Try 6000 and 6500 and see what happens. Hope you put in good valve springs.
If you haven't already, remove the front sway bar, and if you have stock rubber front bushings, remove the serrations. Then double nut the lower a-arm bolts so everything moves free. Up top, do the same, and then loctite the a-arm bolts just short of tight. Every thing needs to move free.
Beyond that....I'm an idiot. Hence the move to CalTracs and the split mono springs. I try not to throw money at it, but I need to do something.
Kudos on the drive to the track....a real street car!
Keep us posted.
Ron
Your short block is stout.
Try 6000 and 6500 and see what happens. Hope you put in good valve springs.
If you haven't already, remove the front sway bar, and if you have stock rubber front bushings, remove the serrations. Then double nut the lower a-arm bolts so everything moves free. Up top, do the same, and then loctite the a-arm bolts just short of tight. Every thing needs to move free.
Beyond that....I'm an idiot. Hence the move to CalTracs and the split mono springs. I try not to throw money at it, but I need to do something.
Kudos on the drive to the track....a real street car!
Keep us posted.
Ron
72nova502, having the force transfer link in the UPPER hole provides a harder hit to the tires, whereas having the force transfer link in the LOWER hole provides a softer hit to the tires.
As far a preload is concerned, running a gap between the springs and the Caltracs provides a HARDER hit to the tires. The more turns you put into the force transfer link, the more preload you are putting on the springs, thus giving you a SOFTER hit to the tires.
As far a preload is concerned, running a gap between the springs and the Caltracs provides a HARDER hit to the tires. The more turns you put into the force transfer link, the more preload you are putting on the springs, thus giving you a SOFTER hit to the tires.
WFO... The man, the myth, the legend.
A note on the Cal Tracs, last weekend was my first time racing with them on. I was trying to adjust them in the dark and after checking the adjustments yesterday what I thought was about 1/2 turn or less preload was actually more like 1 full turn.
Point of my little story is to do a little playing around with them before going out so you're pretty familar with the adjustments before you hit the track. Couple of things I didn't do...Try running 0 preload or even an air-gap depending on how you launch. Try some different launch techniques, off idle/flash, foot brake/varying RPM's, etc.
A note on the Cal Tracs, last weekend was my first time racing with them on. I was trying to adjust them in the dark and after checking the adjustments yesterday what I thought was about 1/2 turn or less preload was actually more like 1 full turn.
Point of my little story is to do a little playing around with them before going out so you're pretty familar with the adjustments before you hit the track. Couple of things I didn't do...Try running 0 preload or even an air-gap depending on how you launch. Try some different launch techniques, off idle/flash, foot brake/varying RPM's, etc.
I also believe from my past experiences with the CalTracs that you need to be on perfectly level ground in order to make correct adjustments.
And you need to buy a couple of 1-1/8" end wrenches and cut one end off so you can use them under the car.
I have my new split mono springs installed. Now I have to machine my spacer blocks to set the ride height and provide the proper clamping of the spring. I have milti leaf spring perches.
Then, I have to modify the shock mounts, I have bottom plates from a 70 Camaro. And they are different than the Nova.
Bolt on? what's that?
Ron
And you need to buy a couple of 1-1/8" end wrenches and cut one end off so you can use them under the car.
I have my new split mono springs installed. Now I have to machine my spacer blocks to set the ride height and provide the proper clamping of the spring. I have milti leaf spring perches.
Then, I have to modify the shock mounts, I have bottom plates from a 70 Camaro. And they are different than the Nova.
Bolt on? what's that?
Ron
I didn't see it mentioned, but make sure you have someone in the drivers seat that is about the same weight as you when you make the adjustments. I didn't the very first time around the block and they were way off.
Maybe it says that in the directions, but who reads stinkin directions.
Good tip from Ron about the short wrench, it is very tight under there.
Maybe it says that in the directions, but who reads stinkin directions.
Good tip from Ron about the short wrench, it is very tight under there.
Or, if yer like me and keep forgetting to make some short wrenches, I back the car up on the trailer ramps to raise it off the ground, then I can use my regular wrenches.Repointer said:I didn't see it mentioned, but make sure you have someone in the drivers seat that is about the same weight as you when you make the adjustments. I didn't the very first time around the block and they were way off.
Maybe it says that in the directions, but who reads stinkin directions.
Good tip from Ron about the short wrench, it is very tight under there.
Just a quick note,any one wanting the full skinney on tunning caltrac,s should talk to John at his webb site... www.dragstuff.com WFO visits often, and knows Johns Nova is now ready for some 8 sec runs. His best 9.01 at 153 I believe.That was at KCI, so his set up works.
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