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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys, i'm not concerned with the cheapest... what's the best harness out there ???

Painless, Francis, EZ...

time ta get the harness for the Flyer... what brand do you like ???

64 Chevy II
 

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SHIFTY4 said:
Hey Guys, i'm not concerned with the cheapest... what's the best harness out there ???

Painless, Francis, EZ...

time ta get the harness for the Flyer... what brand do you like ???

64 Chevy II
well for my car I like painless...and the main reason is that it has a factory style bulkhead connector....I really like that feature :)

PLUS from what I understand is its a quality product to boot;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
forgot ta mention... my battery'll be in the trunk... gonna run a ford solenoid too i think... i forget what the hot set up is... i've lost my mind and i'm still looking for it ;)



<edit> i think i heard that some of the manufactures upsize and lengthen certain wires when the battery's trunked... i'd like to get a system that i won't need to upgrade to work for my application...

does this complicate the recommendations ??? ;)
 

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I used a Ron Francis kit. If you want a factory styled bulkhead. I think they started making those. If you run a Ford solinoid that is at the front, I used that as the hot point for the main harness body. The main hot feed is fairly long. They are good stuff; I recommend them but I sure the others make good kit.
 

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The main fuse panel should be mounted in the front (IMO). The reason is that you don't want all electric items ran all the way from the trunk to under the dash. Like the headlights run from the fuse panel to the switch to the lights and back to the fuse panel. You wouldn't want all the wires running from the panel to the dash. I'm sure you could have one built with extra long wire. On mine the panel is on the firewall where the heater was on the inside. It works out well for me the wires run down the dorr sill and over the rear tub and out the fire wall to the front through the inner wheelwell. Really I guess you could mount it anywhere you wanted. I don't really know how the high dollar cars are done. I have never saw any wires on those car it's all hidden.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
not ta be a knucklehead, but i'm gonna sound like one...

yes, i understand the reasoning for the bulkhead to be up front... i was referring to in my edit concerning the use of the ford solenoid... why up front instead of rear... then i wondered if i even wanted to use the solenoid... i don't know... i want my system as simple as i can get it... but of course, like all of you... i want it high quality. i want the battery in the trunk, that's where it's going... but do i want a ford solenoid in the system or no ???

thanks to all :)
 

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The main battery lead goes to the battery. On my car with batteries in the trunk I needed a hot point for everything to hook to. The alternator and fuse panel needed a hot point. Most cars the batts in the front and it woukld hook there. I used the hot side of the solinoid as that point. The main harness lead is really long and could have ran that far I guess. The solinoid on mine is on the other side of the firewall. The run is only about 12 to 20 inches not 10-12 foot.
 

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The reason for the solinoid is heat soak; I have a mini starter now. It's probably overkill now having the Ford style.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well, i'm planning on running a mini starter, i dunno if a ford solenoid is required... and if so, would i want it up front, or in the rear with battery ???

why other than the soak issue would i want one ???
 

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SHIFTY4 said:
i want it high quality. i want the battery in the trunk, that's where it's going... but do i want a ford solenoid in the system or no ???

thanks to all :)
Hey ... errr...Shifty ...

Yes, you want a ford solenoid if you have you battery in the trunk. That way, from what I understand, the main wire from the battery to up front will only be hot during cranking. Once the vehicle is running it will be dead so that in case of an accident it will not short out and possibly cause a fire.

If you want a "distribution" point on the firewall then get a CN-1 from Mad and run a wire from the horn relay to it. While your at it check out Mad's web site, there's a lot of great info there.


 

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No external needed with mini fromwhat I understand. I wouldn't add one if you do run a mini. All you would need is to run the main feed to the battery. The heavy lead would go to the starter directly. I converted mine after the fact and needed to external solinoid when I started.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, the soak issue for my question isn't the question i should've been asking the "why's"... so i WANT a solenoid for the safety but no concern for the heat soak issue... in which case it Would be in the rear...

i tell ya i get brain fade... i'm wondering if it's a soak issue, why in the back and not off the frame hidden near out of heat to the starter...


OK, i think all the pages from all you guys are clear now, Thanks to all

i told ya i'm gonna sound like a knucklehead... i appreciate it guys :D

have mercy ;)
 

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72Orange said:
Hey ... errr...Shifty ...

Yes, you want a ford solenoid if you have you battery in the trunk. That way, from what I understand, the main wire from the battery to up front will only be hot during cranking. Once the vehicle is running it will be dead so that in case of an accident it will not short out and possibly cause a fire.

If you want a "distribution" point on the firewall then get a CN-1 from Mad and run a wire from the horn relay to it. While your at it check out Mad's web site, there's a lot of great info there.


ok i understand how that would be WAY safer (my car is not like that by the way) now its my turn to sound like a knucklehead BUT how do you charge the battery in the trunk if the main lead is out of the loop unless you are starting?
 

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You are correct. Wether you have a heat soak issue or not, you should run the remote solenoid if the battery is in the trunk. Here's a wiring diagram from Mad.

 

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69NovaSS said:
BUT how do you charge the battery in the trunk if the main lead is out of the loop unless you are starting?
That is one I can't answer. But an excellent question.

I am a hypocrite by the way. My battery is in the trunk and the remote solenoid is on my firewall instead of being in the trunk. It's on the long long list of things TO DO though. :clonk:
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Bill :D

ya know, i could be due a talking to for not paying attention in class as many times as this has been discussed... hopefully i'll just get a scolding instead of a A$$WHOOPING :eek:

i have a few bucks saved up, so NOW i'd like ta do a search and get refreshed... but i have no access to the classroom's archives... be nice ta Johnny :rolleyes:
 

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the red 8 guage wire is that coming from the alt? If so than I see how it can still charge the battery:confused:
 
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