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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thanks for looking at this, I've got a 355 & a 350 turbo trans and a supposed 2400 stall, my problem is at idle in gear the engine is tugging at the car, it idles about 650 in gear, maybe a bit less, its almost 11:1 compression and has a 308\318 duration cam, if i let off the brake and , once the car is pulling itself, stand on the gas it just goes, no spin form the non posi crappy 8.2 rear, it is really sluggish between gears as well, If I get on it @ 60 its almost scary, pulls crazy hard till it shifts @ approx 6500, which is around 130mph, it supposedly has 3.42 gears in it from the previous owner, but i find that impossible considering the lack of spin and the 130 in SECOND gear, I have a set of 4.10 gears for it, but I want opinions on the converter, I REALLY dont think it is the 2400 stall that it was touted to be, any help and input would be great
 

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The advertised stall will vary from car to car mostly from the torque output of the engine, but it shouldn't pull noticably at idle. It sounds more like a stock convertor. If it is a 2400 stall with tall gears will be kinda loose on the highway. May generate a lot of heat in the tranny.
 

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Your speedo is likely off also, as even tall gears probably won't go 130 mph in second gear, even at 6500 rpm.

4.10's will wake up the acceleration, but you will pay for it if you do any freeway driving, as the rpms will be very high. I usually stick to 3.55-3.70's unless I have an overdrive trans.

Jody
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I know my speedometer is off, im basing the 130 on the srt4 that i was smoking, his is accurate, my kickdown wasnt adjusted right and it wouldnt let out of 2nd and go into third, i maxed at about 130, i asked him afterwards how fast he was going when he started to pass me, he said 135-140, i think it has something like a 2.90 gear in it now. As far as the stall goes when its in gear the brake has to be pressed rather hard to hold it still, it "lunges" back and forth as the engine idles
 

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your converter is not what they say or its gone bad.you may need to send it to a converter place to have redone they can set it up to stall what you need with cam, gear and engine combo .thats probably the cheapest way out unless you already have a different converter.if its not a 10 inch converter or smaller i would just buy a new converter
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Im trading my auto and all the goodies with it for a 4 speed saginaw that was just rebuilt less than 300 miles ago, new aluminum bellhousing, new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, Hurst super comp shifter, now i just need a manual pedal cluster for my 77
 

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Isn't 308\318 a lot of duration for a cam that only has a 2400rpm stall converter bolted up behind it? :confused:

I could be wrong here, but that cam could be so large that it's gonna stink at low RPMs, but run great at upper RPMs. That what it sounds like based on your description of what's occurring now.

2400 may not be enough stall for that combo.
 

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i was thinking the same thing i have a 244/244 501 lift cam and i have a hughes 3000 stall converter,,even though its stalls maybe at 2400 when im getting on it
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Way too much cam for the converter, I already had the converter and trans when i built the engine, it was supposed to be a 2400 but acted more like a 1800, your right, it is HORRID at low rpm but it will definetly let you know your alive starting around 3000..... I ordered a pedal assembly and am hoping to have it all together in the next 2 weeks, then all thats left is a tach and a new rear for the car with better gears and some sort of locker.... not sure what yet, but i really like the idea of an ECTED electronic locker, but i cannot afford to even think about that just yet.
 
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