I'm sorry Billy I dont understand what your saying? Are you saying that someone told you that you couldn't stagger mount them but you proved them wrong or are you saying you don't want to mount the way I did because of road racing?
All the parts I bought are from KORE3 industries, Tobin knows alot about braking systems, tandums, hydro, what m/c to use with what combo. The price your not going to beat anywhere. It's all based on c5/c6/c7 brakes. I used there c5/c6 calipers and it stops on a dime, just an FYI going with big rear brakes makes picking out rear rims a PITA.
Here is the final version of the upper shock mount. The extra plate was uneeded and removed. The bend was to allow the shock to sit at the same angle as the passenger side and bolt to the existing shock mount. I used some tubing spacers between the bracket and the stock mount holes. It is really solid and the 1/4" steel is actually thicker then the factory sheetmetal mounting area. The shock also has the same center to center length installed as the passenger side. The paint is drying so the photo installed will be taken tomorrow. I used the nuts and bolts supplied by QA1 to mount the shock to the plate and then bolt the plate to the body.
The orientation of the caliper has no bearing on the operation of it. The rotor goes around and the caliper presses the pads onto it, the parts could care less where on the circle they are mounted. The only limitation is the bleeder. If where you put the caliper causes the bleeder to be anywhere but up it will not allow the air to leave the cavity. Now there is always more then one way to get the end result you need. If the bleeder is not up the caliper can be bled by removing it from the bracket, place a block of wood in between the pads and hold it with the bleeder up while it is being bled. When done install on the car and you are done.