rustoleum vs. por-15

16712 Views 15 Replies 10 Participants Last post by CDJr, May 4, 2006

burningsquirrels

Discussion Starter · May 1, 2006

hey guys...

so i'm running around here and holy crap por-15 sounds pretty expensive... i was thinking of just using some rustoleum stop-rust instead. is there a big difference?

i'm going to be using it around the rear window where some rust holes have formed along the bottom corners. i'm planning on cleaning it up, and use a little bit of fiberglass to create a physical barrier for the water. i'd also like to use it on the floorpans with some rusty metal primer plus a little fiberglass on a couple of the small footwell holes.

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

1965prostreet

· #2 · May 1, 2006

i would personnally spend the money for the POR15. IMO its the best choice.

G

· #3 · May 1, 2006

i went to the paint store ta get some "chassis black" paint... at 40 bucks a qt. i used rustoleum on my 68 c10 frame.

maybe it's not as good as the POR product... but i'll be pushin' daisies before it goes bad...

62novaks

· #4 · May 3, 2006

Ive used POR-15 for 3 diff restorations,and I beleive in it. John,I sealed the roof gutters on my 55 Belair with a liquid metal (Alvin Lab Metal) from a welding shop. I first etched it with a solution of Muratic acid,rinse with water,it kills the rust,and than filled the holes with the lab metal,using a paint brush,you can thin it,than used por-15,sanded and primed, and painted it. That was 4 years ago for the 55. Any way, Ive used it the same way for rusty floors etc. And yeah its expensive,but when your paint is $500/gal ,its cheap insurance.

burningsquirrels

Discussion Starter · #5 · May 3, 2006

well, my paint is only going to run about 50-60/gal

maybe i should have iterated my intent - i'm trying to convert my nova from a field car look to a driver look. it had about 20 layers of rattlecan on it, and i'm looking to lay down maybe just a couple coats of primer, or whatever it takes to get smooth, then lay down some white to help hide the body work. maybe i'll put the side trim back, too. it's not a full-on restoration, i just don't want to look like i'm fresh out of the barn

with that in mind, yeah, i just wondered if it'd be enough to help me seal off some bad areas until i'm ready to replace the sheetmetal.

DANNO

· #6 · May 3, 2006

Another consideration is that POR-15 goes a long way. If it's not a large area just buy the starter kit. Do go through all the steps though. Prep is important.

Dan (POR-15 fan)

CDJr

· #7 · May 3, 2006

Well, if you insist on using POR-15, then you should at least check out Chassis-Saver by Magnet Paints, cuz its identical to POR-15 and is about $30-40 less per gallon. http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

72GreenRally

· #8 · May 4, 2006

The site says MagnetPaints Chassis-saver is sensitive to UV light, and will change color over time if exposed to UV light. Is Por-15 UV light sensitive?

Randy (something that may need to be considered)

CDJr

· #9 · May 4, 2006

Yes, Randy, it is. They are identical, if you look at the tech sheets on both, youll notice theyre identical also.

Nwayne

· #10 · May 4, 2006

I've used rust bullet with some really good results. It's tougher than POR 15, and doesn't require as much prep.
I've seen POR used and it peeled off about 8 months later.

CDJr

· #11 · May 4, 2006

Thats a big 10-4.....POR-15 and Chassis-Saver both are VERY particular as to what types of surfaces they will adhere to. The rougher, the better. Theyre not ideal for clean, smooth surfaces. But as far as rough, ROUGH surfaces, they are unbeatable. From my experience, Id suggest picturing a surface thatd be best suited for Play-Doh to stick to as being an ideal surface. It needs something to bite into for sure or it will just fall off.

SS 396

· #12 · May 4, 2006

I hate products that go OVER Rust

burningsquirrels

Discussion Starter · #13 · May 4, 2006

I was just holding chassis-saver the other day, but didn't buy it since i still had most of a pint of por-15 still sitting around.

i finally went to a paint and body supply shop for the first time, but i'll post that story in another thread.

SixtyII

· #14 · May 4, 2006

Rustoleum chips way to easy. The last thing you want if you was to stop rust from reforming.

69NovaSS

· #15 · May 4, 2006

from what I hear this stuff is as good, if not better, then Por-15 and it costs less too

http://www.nomorerust.com/

I havent used it myself but there are several members on Steves that have and they swear by it.

CDJr

· #16 · May 4, 2006

Same here, 69.....I havent tried it (yet), but I plan on trying it the next time I need something for that purpose. It came very highly recommended by several people whose advice I respect highly. Dont get me wrong, POR-15 and Chassis-Saver are great products, but after experimenting with them, Ive come to the conclusion that the reason that most people dont like them is because they try to use them for the wrong applications, and part of that is because of the way theyre marketed. They are NOT good as a replacement for paint, etc, which is what youd think from their ads, and which is how a lotta people try to use them. However, they are fantastic for covering something that is going to be and/or has been "used & abused" or is rusted really bad. I wish I woulda taken pics of the bottom of my industrial shop-vac before I coated it, cuz it was so corroded that you could flake off chunks of rusted steel as big as a quarter. I had some Chassis-Saver left over after spraying parts and hated to throw it away so I dumped the junk out of the shop-vac and sprayed it out with a hose and knocked the loose chunks off of it. Then I just slopped that stuff all over it with an old paint brush, just ta see what itd do, and lo & behold, that damn thing is STILL bulletproof to this day!!! :beers:

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