so i'm running around here and holy crap por-15 sounds pretty expensive... i was thinking of just using some rustoleum stop-rust instead. is there a big difference?
i'm going to be using it around the rear window where some rust holes have formed along the bottom corners. i'm planning on cleaning it up, and use a little bit of fiberglass to create a physical barrier for the water. i'd also like to use it on the floorpans with some rusty metal primer plus a little fiberglass on a couple of the small footwell holes.
Ive used POR-15 for 3 diff restorations,and I beleive in it. John,I sealed the roof gutters on my 55 Belair with a liquid metal (Alvin Lab Metal) from a welding shop. I first etched it with a solution of Muratic acid,rinse with water,it kills the rust,and than filled the holes with the lab metal,using a paint brush,you can thin it,than used por-15,sanded and primed, and painted it. That was 4 years ago for the 55. Any way, Ive used it the same way for rusty floors etc. And yeah its expensive,but when your paint is $500/gal ,its cheap insurance.
well, my paint is only going to run about 50-60/gal
maybe i should have iterated my intent - i'm trying to convert my nova from a field car look to a driver look. it had about 20 layers of rattlecan on it, and i'm looking to lay down maybe just a couple coats of primer, or whatever it takes to get smooth, then lay down some white to help hide the body work. maybe i'll put the side trim back, too. it's not a full-on restoration, i just don't want to look like i'm fresh out of the barn
with that in mind, yeah, i just wondered if it'd be enough to help me seal off some bad areas until i'm ready to replace the sheetmetal.
Well, if you insist on using POR-15, then you should at least check out Chassis-Saver by Magnet Paints, cuz its identical to POR-15 and is about $30-40 less per gallon. http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp
Thats a big 10-4.....POR-15 and Chassis-Saver both are VERY particular as to what types of surfaces they will adhere to. The rougher, the better. Theyre not ideal for clean, smooth surfaces. But as far as rough, ROUGH surfaces, they are unbeatable. From my experience, Id suggest picturing a surface thatd be best suited for Play-Doh to stick to as being an ideal surface. It needs something to bite into for sure or it will just fall off.
Same here, 69.....I havent tried it (yet), but I plan on trying it the next time I need something for that purpose. It came very highly recommended by several people whose advice I respect highly. Dont get me wrong, POR-15 and Chassis-Saver are great products, but after experimenting with them, Ive come to the conclusion that the reason that most people dont like them is because they try to use them for the wrong applications, and part of that is because of the way theyre marketed. They are NOT good as a replacement for paint, etc, which is what youd think from their ads, and which is how a lotta people try to use them. However, they are fantastic for covering something that is going to be and/or has been "used & abused" or is rusted really bad. I wish I woulda taken pics of the bottom of my industrial shop-vac before I coated it, cuz it was so corroded that you could flake off chunks of rusted steel as big as a quarter. I had some Chassis-Saver left over after spraying parts and hated to throw it away so I dumped the junk out of the shop-vac and sprayed it out with a hose and knocked the loose chunks off of it. Then I just slopped that stuff all over it with an old paint brush, just ta see what itd do, and lo & behold, that damn thing is STILL bulletproof to this day!!! :beers: