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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the process of replacing the heads on my 400SB. It has Headman headers, and I am having trouble getting to the two bolts behind the two bends of the header on the drivers side. The headers are loose, but not out of the engine. I am hoping to avoid removing them, and still be able to get the lower head bolts out.

Is there a trick to getting these out? And is it normal to have some coolant drip out of the bolt holes?

Thank

So-cal Jack
 

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I am in the process of replacing the heads on my 400SB. It has Headman headers, and I am having trouble getting to the two bolts behind the two bends of the header on the drivers side. The headers are loose, but not out of the engine. I am hoping to avoid removing them, and still be able to get the lower head bolts out.

Is there a trick to getting these out? And is it normal to have some coolant drip out of the bolt holes?

Thank

So-cal Jack
You need to be able to move the headers out of the way. You may be able to leave them connected at the collector and remove the six bolts out of the head. Then pull them far enough outside to allow the head bolts to be removed.

It is normal to have coolant leak out of the head bolts when removed; hopefully you drained the coolant first, or you'll get a lot of water in the crankcase.

Jody
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the information. I was thinking of putting a jack under the exhaust to raise the headers high enough for me to get under them with a tool. I'm hoping that will be a simple solution, since I'm doing this alone and need both hands to break the bolts loose. Not sure how much room it will give me, but hopefully enough.

I did drain and remove my radiator. I believe that is all I need to do. Is there another step that I missed? I sure don't want any water to get into my crankcase.


So-cal Jack
 

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Thank you for the information. I was thinking of putting a jack under the exhaust to raise the headers high enough for me to get under them with a tool. I'm hoping that will be a simple solution, since I'm doing this alone and need both hands to break the bolts loose. Not sure how much room it will give me, but hopefully enough.

I did drain and remove my radiator. I believe that is all I need to do. Is there another step that I missed? I sure don't want any water to get into my crankcase.


So-cal Jack
If you also drain the block it should get the rest of the water out, or at least get it below the head bolt level. There is a plug above the pan rail on each side of the block. Sometimes it's a petcock you can twist to drain the water, just like a radiator. Usually it's a plug you need to remove.
 

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oh yeah also once the heads are off run a thread chaser thru the bolt holes to insure proper toqure, and make sure you put a non hardening sealer on the threads of the bolts that go into the water jackets.
oh one more thing dont use a tap to clean the bolt holes due to the fact that it removes metal, and the chaser only cleans
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I ended up removing my headers, and it has opened up a lot more room for me to work. The install will be a lot easier with the headers out of the way.
Is it Moly lube or anti seize that you apply to the head bolts? Is there a difference? Do certain bolts use a different lube?

So-cal Jack
 

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Jack,

Pulling the engine and getting the cam change, gasket swap and head bolt torque right is an option you should explore. The engine is easier to work on when it is sitting on an engine stand.

This also allows you to swap the converter! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for the information. Unfortunately, I am doing this job on weekends in my driveway. I guess you can consider this a "budget" build, and having an understanding wife. :)

What are the differences between MOLY lube and anti-seize? I know to use anti-seize on the head bolts, but can Moly lube be used instead? Are they the same? What applications require anti-seize, and moly lube?

Thank for the info...

S0-Cal Jack
 

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On the bolts that go into the water jackets, be sure to put some type of pipe dope on them so they don't leak. Not teflon tape but actual pipe dope. On the rest of them just be sure they are clean and put a light coat of oil on them so they will torque correctly. If you chase the threads in the block be careful not to get any junk into the cylinders.
 

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ONE BIG THOUGHT!!! get rid of those crappy header bolts..the back passenger bolt is a pain..since its so close to the fire wall, its hard to get a bite...loosen your collector and undo the rest of the bolts and tip the header towards you..this may give you more room to take them off

NOW go down and get some arp header bolts with 7/16 thread but have 3/8" head on them, this smaller head allows the use of a smaller wrench..this works wonderful!!! and allows you to get a full bite on the back bolts
 
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