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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The 1982 Eldorado's rear brake install on my 77 went well. All the parts were removed from a junker that was free for just removing it from the yard it was in. The mounting plates needed re-drilled to fit the flange on the axle housing and a little metal removed to clear the rotor. The drivers side shock had to be moved in front of the axle to clear the caliper. That procedure is here. Originally I was just going to rebuild the caliper as they are real easy to work on, but one of the actuators was broken. The rebuilt calipers with pads and hardware were reasonably priced it is the core charge that is outrageous. The brake hose is the same one used on the front and the hose bracket is from the front of a 64 Chevelle. The stock hard lines were bent to go into the bracket instead of the stock wheel cylinder.



White line shows the area that was removed to clear the rotor. On a 12 bolt and 8.2" 10 bolt it is not needed. The axle flange to housing distance is a little greater.









Notice that the bracket has 2 tabs to guide the caliper while sliding. Most aftermarket kits use a flat plate.





And when done none of it is visible contributing to the sleeper look:)



Rebuilt loaded (with the pads and all hardware) caliper $97, brake hose $10 and the rotor $54. So the total cost for the conversion comes to $322.

The park brake cable will be installed after it is cleaned, both run down the drivers side and loop to each other attaching directly to the primary cable. It eliminates the cable under the exhaust and drive shaft. It crosses over the rear end will need attached to the body above the rear end or maybe to the rear cover.
 
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MAN those caps look sweet on that wheel... sure is gonna be nice when it's done Philip. :thumbsup:

thanks for the update (but do ya HAVE ta make the pics so big ? :rolleyes: ;) )
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bryan moving the lever will adjust the pads out against the rotor. The internal mechanism will only allow the piston to move the pads the proper amount so there is no chance of them over adjusting.

What type of calipers have you installed and what problems are you having?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The passenger side park brake cable is now installed. It is fastened to the top cover bolt where the brake line usually attaches and is anchored in the factory bracket for the drivers side brake cable. The drivers side will run outside the frame rail and anchor to a bracket mounted to the pinch weld of the rocker panel, then loop over the subframe connector through the primary cable attachment and tie into passenger side cable.
I need to make the bracket and then shorten the drivers side cable.
My goal is to have it look as if GM installed the set up.







 

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Looks great the only thing that has me wondering is on my car (67 nova) the rear kit complete less drilled & slotted rotors was well under 400.00 and it wasn't much more for the slotted rotors did you price shop a new kit before dropping 322.00 and some modifying? man all that work is making me tired:eek:

Matts classic bowties hooked me up:thumbsup:



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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
David a lot of the kits have parts that are not easily identified and the sellers do not always want to share which calipers or pads that can be used without buying through them. Some used the over complicated Ford rear calipers which are a pain to keep working and difficult to repair. I did not like some of the mounting brackets that they offered either. Especially the ones that had to be installed with shims and spacers to get it positioned correctly.
If i need a brake part while traveling..say over by Littlerock, I can go to any good parts store and get any part of this system and be back on the road. With the kits that may not be possible. If the calipers had been good the total cost would have been around $150 and both totals include the master cylinder and proportioning valve. One other point I need to make is that originally this brake set up was going to be used on a 64 El Camino and I have had these parts for over 10 years. It is amazing how one little divorce and moving 4 times can really slow down and change the direction a project is going.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Looks great the only thing that has me wondering is on my car (67 nova) the rear kit complete less drilled & slotted rotors was well under 400.00 and it wasn't much more for the slotted rotors did you price shop a new kit before dropping 322.00 and some modifying? man all that work is making me tired:eek:

Matts classic bowties hooked me up:thumbsup:
I like the challenge of doing modifications in a true hot rodder sense; that is by adapting readily available parts from other GM cars to my project. My roots go back to the late 50's-early 60's era when kits were not heard of and hot rods were built by innovative gear heads from whatever was available at the local junk yards. My inspiration came at 10 years old watching the "older guy" (he was probably about 18 at the time :) ) down the street build a 48 Merc into a chopped "lead sled". From then on I was hooked into driving something that was fast and unique. Hopefully the fast is taken care of and what can be more unique then to build a rather undesirable (to some anyway) body style into a nice hot rod.
 

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I did a similar conversion about 10 years ago on the 75 Camaro that I used to have. I found a 79 T/A WS6 rear for $50.00. I used the mounting brackets from the rear and used the calipers for cores. The Firebird rear is ideal because it was desgined by GM to install on a staggered shock rear (no drilling). New calipers and rotors were less than $250.00. While I was at it I added all new stainless lines, a new master cylinder, proportioning valve and new front calipers and rotors and e-brake cables. The complete brake make over was under $600.00 and the rear brakes look like they were factory installed. I used to get a lot of people staring at the rear brakes and scratching thier heads until they couldn't stand it any longer and had to ask if it came that way.

Phillip, I have a friend that has a 76 Nova, 350, 350TH, dropped 2 inches, Fire Engine Red, black interior. It is a sharp car. Whoever says that the Nova's lost their snap after 72 doesn't know what they are talking about.
 
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PHilip... look REAL close at this image:




wiggle that cable around until the other tangs expand to hold the E brake cable firmly in the bracket, OK ?


other than that... lookin' Good Pops :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The hole is a touch to big, but it will be fixed.

John I want to thank you for the tip on shortening the park brake cable.
This was actually easier than I expected. Having mentioned the need to find a shorter cable to John he offered an cool way to do it.

Use a bolt the same outside diameter of the original ferrule. Saw off the threaded area, drill a hole down through the center the size of the cable, cut to length and braze onto the cable. I used silver solder and it worked well. My cable was about 15" to long and now is just right.

Here is the finished cable, just need to cut off the tail.



A shot of the original and new

 
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that's the trick that was told to me in the late '70's/early '80's when i did my first rear disc conversion on a '55 Chevy. to my knowledge it was the first conversion in the So-Cal area as everyone wanted to know what i did to make it work without buying specialized parts.

this was way before cell phones & the internet. we didn't have that luxury :noway:


glad to have helped.

*this thread and the front disc conversion thread have been stickied and will be "Moved" to the new 1975-1979 forum as soon as it's opened*
 

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a lot of the kits have parts that are not easily identified and the sellers do not always want to share which calipers or pads that can be used without buying through them
Exactly this. It's why although I have not converted mine yet, I would really like to stick with factory parts. I know I'll always be able to get them if needed.

Nice job, BTW! I know this is a REALLY old thread, but I'm new to the forum.....;)
 
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