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Discussion Starter · #241 ·
Got more done on the rear consoles. Started working on the sides.































I still have a bit to do on both sides and then I hope to start wrapping them all with sheet metal.

I also got some seat sliders for the front seats. I really wanted to try and keep the power sliders, but at almost 3" high, it makes the seats sit way too high in the car.









 

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Discussion Starter · #242 ·


I also picked up a new grinder with belt sander. I have wanted a belt sander for a while and when this unit when on sale, I got one

 

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Discussion Starter · #243 ·
Well it's been a couple months since I've updated, so I thought I better do one. Unfortunately haven't gotten much actually done on the car. Things around the house and overtime shifts have gotten in the way. I hope to get a few productive days in though over the next few weeks as I will be on holidays for a bit.

Did get a few new sweet parts though. Thanks Matt at MCB!!







I borrowed this idea of a photo from another thread. Shows the difference in size between the stock rad and the Autorad one





Don't think I'll have to worry about this setup not keeping the car cool on the hot desert summer days

















And a Dakota Digital programmable fan controller with LED display

 

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Discussion Starter · #245 ·
Time for an update. Cleaned up the shop a bit so I was able to get a better pic of the rad and rad support.



I've been slowing working on replacing the tail light panel.....again. When I put the first one in, I completely forgot to check the fit of the tail lights. Of course they didn't fit right and there was a huge gap. I also didn't like the way the truck aligned so here's where I'm at with that.



I got tired of working on the tail light panel, so I decided to get my front seats installed.

In a previous post, I stated that I used the existing holes in the bottom of the GTO seats to put the seat sliders. The thing I forgot to do, was to actually measure and make sure they were parallel. They weren't.

There was 1/2" difference between the top of the sliders and the bottom. So I had to drill new holes



And welded in the old ones



Another thing I ended up doing was replacing the bucket seat floor brackets. I cut the stock studs off and welded bolts onto the ones that I had already installed. I did this when I thought I could use the power tracks for the seats. So I cut out the old brackets and put in news ones.



I replaced all the stock studs with grade 8 bolts, but they are in the stock location. If anyone needs a set of bucket seat floor brackets, I now have an extra set that I will sell. I need to do some clean up on them to get rid of the bolts I welded on.

Next I made some brackets to mount the seats to the floor







Reinforced them and painted them black









And they were finally in













 

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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
And with the seats finally in place, I had to modify the front console. I've been asked a few times why I chose to make the console out of round bar. Here's one big reason why. Very easy to change if needed.













I must say, it was pretty cool to sit in the driver's seat again. I think it's the first time I've done that in about 12 years.

On a side note, I'm still looking for a pair of driver's side door hinges if anyone can help me out. I really wanted to use some stock ones and rebuild them, but I might end up having to buy some Goodmark ones.

I've also been wanting to buy a mountain bike for a few years. Finally got one



Even found room in the shop to hang it



Between walking and biking, I've already lost 5 pounds over the past few weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #247 ·
Well it's been way too long with an update. I don't have much to update, but at least it's progress. Unfortunately the past winter I didn't get much at all done. Sucks when life gets in the way. The winter here was colder than normal and when it takes an hour to warm up the shop just to get it comfortable, it's hard to get motivated. Along with the weather and a few other things, didn't make it out to the shop much at all. I hope to try and play catch up now.

Last fall I bought a new rotisserie. I should have name this project Redo as it seems I keep redoing alot of it.





The end of February I got to spend three weeks in Phoenix on a work course. Being on expenses everyday is great. Also a great way to buy some parts. Unfortunately I wasn't able to make it to their shop as I was in course during their business hours. New trunk hinges from Fesler







I also decided that I was done trying to find good stock hinges to rebuild. I had no problem finding passenger side ones, but I could not find driver's side ones that were not worn out alot. So I decided to buy new ones from Classic Industries (via Hot Rods and Classics in Chilliwack, BC).



I'm still fighting trying to get the tail light panel right where I want it. Although I think I figured out one of the issues and hope to get that done soon. In the mean time, I thought I'd attack something else so I felt like I was accomplishing something.

I started putting in the DSE subframe connectors. As I normally do, I thought I would take lots of pics so I could do a detailed write up. I haven't seen too many people actually show pics of the entire process. I've seen some comments that these aren't real subframe connectors. The way I look at it is there are a lot of guys out there that know a lot more than I do, or ever will, and they are running these connectors. Their cars are handling amazing and winning so they can't be all that bad :D

First you cut out the supplied template



Put it in place



Trace the template



Cut



And test fit







Both side mocked up







Next week I'll start welding them into place.

I also have a question regarding my motor. Do I need to put this back in place or can I just get some block offs. If I put it back, where does it hook up to.

 

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Glad to see you are still going on it Mike! For a while there I thought I might catch you on my build.

Good progress! The fesler stuff is super nice!

I will have to look at my motor tonight, but i think that cross over pipe is for coolant flow from head to head. the nipple on it goes to the throttle body (cap it). It has been a while since I have had one apart, but I would cap the nipple and keep the cross over
 

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Isn't that the steam tube that connects the two heads together? The other end feeds into a purge can of some sort before it drains back into the radiator as I remember it. I would have to go out and look under the hood of my pick-up to see where it goes if it is the steam tube.

I do not any one that says the DSE frame connectors you have are not real. They are great and is similar to what I used to do to build my old street bruisers. Are you sure the tube connects to the top portion of the sub frame instead of the bottom?

I used to use rectangular tubing that was the same height as the sub frame and welded them solid so that I was extending the sub frame back to the rear of the car. I also cut out the floor pans to run the tubing rather than hanging down under the car. Since I didn't own a tubing bender I used to cut a pie shaped wedge out of a section to be able to bend the tube up at an angle. I don't know if I saved any strength by welding only three sides at a time instead of cutting straight through the tubing but it looked better considering all the splatter I got with the stick welder I was using back then. But back then I was using Sears "Our Best" 220V welder.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #250 ·
Glad to see you are still going on it Mike! For a while there I thought I might catch you on my build.

Good progress! The fesler stuff is super nice!

I will have to look at my motor tonight, but i think that cross over pipe is for coolant flow from head to head. the nipple on it goes to the throttle body (cap it). It has been a while since I have had one apart, but I would cap the nipple and keep the cross over
Thanks Jeff. I'm sure it wouldn't take much to catch up. At the pace I'm going, a snail would beat me.

Isn't that the steam tube that connects the two heads together? The other end feeds into a purge can of some sort before it drains back into the radiator as I remember it. I would have to go out and look under the hood of my pick-up to see where it goes if it is the steam tube.

I do not any one that says the DSE frame connectors you have are not real. They are great and is similar to what I used to do to build my old street bruisers. Are you sure the tube connects to the top portion of the sub frame instead of the bottom?

I used to use rectangular tubing that was the same height as the sub frame and welded them solid so that I was extending the sub frame back to the rear of the car. I also cut out the floor pans to run the tubing rather than hanging down under the car. Since I didn't own a tubing bender I used to cut a pie shaped wedge out of a section to be able to bend the tube up at an angle. I don't know if I saved any strength by welding only three sides at a time instead of cutting straight through the tubing but it looked better considering all the splatter I got with the stick welder I was using back then. But back then I was using Sears "Our Best" 220V welder.

Big Dave
Thanks Dave. Turns out it is the steam port from the heads. I'm looking at maybe getting this kit to vent it, just not sure if it will look too busy http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/ls-water-vapor-system.html

I double checked the instructions after reading your post and it does look like when installed they are supposed to be at the top of the subframe.


Quick update....got the connectors tacked into place. Just need to finish welding them in. Will weld the underside once it's back on the rotisserie.

 

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Discussion Starter · #252 ·
Okay, I have to ask, why are you buying a rotisserie at this stage of the game?

And no, if I catch you, you have some serious issues!
Cause I'm an idiot and I like doing everything on my car twice :clonk:
The fun of doing a car for the first time. I jumped the gun on putting it on the rotisserie the first time and painting the under side. Since I painted the underside, I have welded and bunch of stuff onto the floor and have burned off the under coating. So instead of laying on my back to redo everything, I decided to get another rotisserie. I sold the one I built for what I had into it, minus my time, so I'm not really out much, except of course my time and the coat of the paint already. In this pic, you can see some of the areas that have been burned off from welding on the inside floor

 

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I must have used a thicker (taller piece of tubing) because it stuck up higher inside the rear foot well; tripping anyone attempting to get in the rear seat, and it went from top to bottom of the front sub frame. In fact from memory I had to cut and section it to fit into the sub frame because it was taller. Back then bigger was better, so I may have used a lot bigger (not to mention thicker wall if I could find it) section of rectangular tubing than I needed.

I got my iron back then from "honest" Sol Walker And Co.'s junk yard facing MacKay bay in Tampa so I bought it for scrap, and since I was hauling in scrap cars and motors it was basically free. I just picked up different pieces of structural steel and rectangular or round tubing I found lying on the scrap pile and threw them in the back of my truck which was weighed coming in and going out. I hardly ever found a piece longer than six feet long, but I built several tandem axle car hauler trailers, cranes, work stands, anything that I could figure out that I needed one of and could glue together with a stick welder back then out of what I found on the steel pile.

Big Dave
 

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Mike good to see a update from you. I try to check on your build when I'm on the site. I wanted to comment on the steam vent tubes. I like the set your looking at, also trick flow has a set as well through summit , half the cost.
Marc
 

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Discussion Starter · #256 ·
Time for another update. Like most lately, not a huge update, but it's still progress. Decided to install the Fesler trunk hinges. Thought I'd be better off with the hinges that I'm actually going to use when trying to get everything aligned.

Out with the old ones







Putting the new ones in

Using a supplied template, had to drill a new hole



To mount this





Then I had to trim the area in red



I forgot to take a pic of the original pin in place, but this is where you get the old pin out. You need to bend the tab out to get the old pin out





The shock that the hinge uses and the weird little pins







Where the shock connects





In place

 

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Discussion Starter · #257 ·








I decided to install the hinges as I've been fighting with getting the trunk and tail light panel aligned properly. I might end up having to make a couple relief cuts in the quarter panels to make it all fit.







I've been able to get the gaps along the sides really nice, but I can not get the rear gap to fit. I may just end up having to weld in a piece of round rod onto the trunk. Any suggestions??







Here's what I'll be working on over the next while. Been wanting to do this for a while now. We have 3 cars, a utility trailer and a boat trailer and it's like a game of tetris organizing them. I'm widening the driveway at the top by 20 feet. It will come straight back 25 feet then start to angle toward the bottom of the driveway. At the top we should be able to put 3 cars wide plus both my trailers.









So between working on the retaining wall and driveway and yet another trip to Vegas next weekend, won't get back into the shop for a while.
 

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Mike
Enjoyed seeing your thread. Very nice. Starting 69 Nova pro-touring LS3 in about three months. Just picked up a car today.
 
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