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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
They‘re honestly not much different than any other automatic, don’t let the hype surrounding them scare you. If you’ve been through any other GM transmission before, the 700’s won‘t give you any surprises. In fact, the first transmission I ever did was a 1988 model 700R4 when I was around 15.

They’re intimidating because everyone has horror stories and a different opinion on how to make them live, and the early ones got a bad rep they didn’t deserve for quite a few years. Everyone shits on the 4L60E now because it’s popular to do so, but they‘re very capable. Most issues they faced are resolved in a quality rebuild kit that includes upgrades to hard parts. IMO, ProBuilt Automatics makes the best, most complete kit out there for most usages. A new drum is a must, the Smartshell is as well IMO. The only other upgrade I recommend is the Case Saver, but the 700’s seem less prone to that issue. I‘ve never had 2-3 overlap issues, but that’s usually solved with the larger servos that help balance out the transfer between the 2-4 band release and the 3-4 clutch apply.
 

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Oh heck, I been doing 400's, 350's and C6's since the early 80's, just started doing 700R-4L60E's about 5 years ago, nothing scary or intimidating about any of them, lol, I have a 4L60E in both my Suburban and my Nova, converted both to full manual "NO" electronics just one wire for the lock up, and I just finished a 700R for my C10 project. Yeah, I talked to Dana a couple times he really knows his stuff, and if you're not into playing with them and just want to put one together and go he has about the best kits out there, he puts them together for you're application not just a universal kit.. BTW, one more mandatory item to replace in 700R-4L60e's is the separator plate, the factory metal is junk, checkballs beat their way through real easy, bought a few cores and they said it just quit on them and everyone I took apart the cause of death was the separator plate, balls usually get stuck half ways through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Yeah, I think the Torlon check balls are also standard now even though he doesn’t list them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
That’s what I’ve used on the last few builds, they seems to work well IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Started off this weekend with getting the case cleaned! One of these days I would love to invest in some type of professional parts cleaner.



Low/Reverse piston installed!



Output shaft and low/reverse clutch pack temporarily installed to check clearances. Clearance ended up at .128”, which is fairly excessive.



The solution for this was to strip the clutch material from a low/reverse friction, which gave me a “steel” that measured .039”.



Success, clearance ended up at .089”, nearly dead center of the .080” to .100” recommended range! Reinstalled the output shaft, low/reverse clutch pack, and the case saver on the forward side of the center support.



Unfortunately, this is where I’m stopping for the weekend. The output shaft has some wear on the nub for the rear line circuit, and the upgraded 4L60E low/reverse roller clutch was damaged in shipping.

 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Finally got a few moments to get back on this.

Input shaft had some wear, ordered a 300M shaft and drum assembly from ATI!



Found the burnt clutch pack causing the debris.





Whole set installed!



Disassembled the pump.



Painted the front housing.



Reassembly!



I machined a new bushing driver for the rear pump bushings since the driver set I have didn’t really fit the bushings well.



Pump installed!



Park linkage and band apply piston installed.



Separator plate on.





Going through the valve body and installing the shift kit.



Valve body installed!



Painted the pan.



Pan installed!



Governor and mount installed!



Tailhousing on, trans is complete!





 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Took a couple last pictures before rolling it on the trailer for winter storage!



 
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