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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys new to the site first post. I am building my 74 nova and to start its going to be a all new motor build top to bottom. Need some opinions.Car needs to be Naturally aspirated, goal is to run low 9s if ever break into 8s with nos way down the road would be awesome. Car is going to be still driven on streets off pump gas and some freeway miles. Behind it is t400 and hopefully a 9 inch with caltracks split monos 3.73s on 275s.. maybe mini tub with funds one day. Want to be able to drive the car on street with some manners..pry less throttle ha. Want everything to be good grade stuff thinking of a 555 or 565 to reach hp goals of 800 or so. I would think it would take that much to run 9s but if I’m wrong please tell me. Any opinions I’m all ears. If it’s overkill or not enough. Thinking dart block open too main brand heads and sizes..Assembling all myself first build from bare bones off the stand. Thanks guys!

p.s want run just carb no power adders this build..
 

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Welcome to the Team Jack!

Let me put your '67 Chevy II steel body into the nines.

Start here with a full frame 12 point cage. (required by NHRA rules):

https://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/...MI6quP-dqT4AIVXv_jBx3zTgL6EAkYCCABEgKio_D_BwE

Add a 582 short block:

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eB...ategory=33615&pm=1&ds=0&t=1508881470000&ver=0

A set of heads to support your power levels:

https://www.airflowresearch.com/357cc-bbc-rectangle-port-cylinder-head/

And a cam to make the power you want:

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2055&gid=253

You need 0.300 taller solid roller lifters:

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=792&gid=211

7/16 inch push rod guide plates, and Manton Series 3 pushrods (measure required length first then order):

http://mantonpushrods.com/pushrod-info/pushrod-series/

Replacement guide plates to fit pushrods:

https://www.racingheadservice.com/8...block-chevy-for-7-16-pushrods-7-16-studs.html

Set of Jesel Sportsman 1.7:1 shaft mount roller rockers:

https://www.summitracing.com/oh/par...MIwqXXueGT4AIVw0oNCh2rGgfJEAQYBSABEgI67fD_BwE
For your ignition needs a MSD 7AL-3 ignition box,

https://www.jegs.com/i/MSD-Ignition/121/7330/10002/-1

and a matching MSD Ignition Pro-Billet Distributor Part Number: 121-85551

https://www.jegs.com/i/MSD-Ignition/121/85551/10002/-1

and a set of MSD 8.5 mm spiral core spark plug wires w/90 degree boots:

https://www.jegs.com/i/MSD-Ignition/121/31229/10002/-1

Edelbrock Super Victor II Intake Manifold BBC 9.8 Standard Deck .080 Raised Ports Carb for 4500 series carb:

https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2895K/10002/-1

and a Holley 1150 CFM Dominator 1 x 4 Gas 3-Circuit Metering 4500 series carburetor

Have to add a timing chain set, timing chain cover, oil pan and oil pump, an ARP stud kit and bolt kit for a BBC with tall aluminum heads, short Stewarts Phase Two short water pump and freeze plugs paint and other masc. parts.

Run out of money yet?

Need a Moser Dana 60 rear end and a Chassis Engineering four link kit to bolt it (welding required) in place.

http://www.moserengineering.com/moser-60-musclepak-muscle-pak-pack-dana.item

https://pitstopusa.com/i-23902449-c...MIn_nVouiT4AIVz0oNCh1j5AgFEAQYAyABEgKn0vD_BwE

and of course you will need some front wheels and spindles and a-arms, etc:

http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-3662-ultimate-pro-touring-clip-front-suspension.aspx

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the response dave i may have typed wrong but its 74.

also you think such big cubes instead of maybe a 555 or 65? kinda thinking i may want have room to rebuild if (crossing fingers) she grenades one day haha
 

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Instead of a 582 you can run a 572 by retaining the 4.500 inch bore.

Ya, my bad. Been responding to a lot of '67 Chevy II inquires. Same company makes a tube chassis for the Camaro/Nova platform (in this case it doesn't matter that you have a '74; as the 12 point cage comes with it's own rectangular tube frame that negates the difference between a '73-'74 and the 1968-'72 body.

The 4.375 inch stoke will allow you to hit 8,000 RPM. You could go for a 4.75 inch stroke and a 4.600" bore for a 632 and run a 3.54 gear. Much better for cruising on the interstate than a 4.10.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #6
no worries! is that to much stroke for a short block? I was told a solid 555 combo would be the 4.560 bore with 4.25 stroke and is over 800 hp even manageable once streets? hard for me to say neveruilt a car with such high ponies hah
 

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Anything over 540 cubes can blow the tires off at will. Longer the stroke the more torque you make. A 540 is a 4.500 bore block with a 4.250 inch stroke. you get a 555 by lengthening the stroke another another eighth of an inch to get a 4.500 bore and 4.375 inch stoke. Take the stroke out to 4.550 with a 4.500 bore and you get a 572 which is as long a stroke that you can stuff into a factory Gen V or Gem VI block. A Dart block is clearanced and offers a raised cam tunnel to allow you to run up to a 4.75 inch stroke. Open the bore to 4.600 inches and you get a 531 with a 4.00 stroke, a 565, and a 582 with a 4.375 inch stroke. Finaly a square bore (4.5 x 4.5) and you get a 598 cube torque monster.

It is torque that accelerates your car not horsepower. Horsepower is only important to NASCAR and Dry Lake Speed trials. It is what allows you to push air out of your way to obtain high speeds.

Big Dave
 

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Cost wise the short block is generally the same price if you are using a Dart block, as only the rotating assembly is different so you can just pick the displacement you want and it will be similar in cost. Where price differs greatly is in the quality of the parts (forged vs cast), and the price you pay for heads. The higher you want to twist the motor (where you make horsepower vs torque) the more you will have to pay for valves, head casting, porting, springs and rocker arms.

You can get into the nines normally aspirated, but it is a lot easier with a power adder. Been there done that and got the t-shirt!

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I imagine it is a lot easier with power adder haha. I just want the best longevity i can get and i love just carb engines. Is a engine of that hp/tq with a carb going to be ok on the streets you think? or more of a drag engine. Cause 9s are the goal forsure but the car will be driven more times a week on road(weekdays) and more select weekends on the track. thanks guys a lot for response !Big Dave and brain oniel

I would think the bigger tire and right suspension setup can give some sort of street manners correct me if I'm wrong!
 

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I had my Impala running 9.39, yet I still drove it daily.



It was powered by a 582 with a 250 shot of nitrous. Normally aspirated I couldn't keep tires on it and blew it apart after seven years of fighting it (motor in pieces and crushed the body), because I couldn't stand driving it on the street any more.

Punch it to pass some one on the interstate and the back end wanted to swing around as one tire got more traction than the other (all posi's do this on the street so stay sharp when driving, particularly on corners).

I was a jet jockey in the Navy and drove every kind of race car you can imagine over time but it gets old after while having to constantly stay on top of a wild beast. Sure doesn't drive like a Jap import; no need for the coffee can exhaust tip on a car like this.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #12
hah i bet that car had some punch how much power was it pushing? Is there really any way to run 9s no power adders and still maintain street drivability
 

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Newton said it best: f=ma

If you can not make as much force as you like (your horsepower is the f), then you have to reduce your mass (the m is your car's weight) to get a faster rate of acceleration.

In my case I started out with a 3,900 pound four door Taxi cab. I pulled 900 pounds out of it and built a motor designed to handle a 500 horse shot of nitrous. By doing so (opening ring gap, and lowering static compression, split duration cam with more duration on the exhaust side) I only made 750 naturally aspirated horsepower, but with a 250 shot of Nitrous I was making over a thousand horsepower (just like everybody else on the web).

Big Dave
 

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Welcome Jack!

Enyoing this thread so far, :yes: Big Dave you have any video of any of your cars going down the strip?
 

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I learned that my bottles (I had two 15 pounders in the trunk) were always empty. Toady it is getting harder to get them refilled as neither Jeg's nor Summit have a store in my town and my local speed shop has gone under for lack of patronage.

Turbo's are the most efficient if you want to maximize horsepower but have the disadvantage of being very expensive and will fill every square inch under your hood with plumbing. There is also the time required to spool up the turbo if you rely upon one big one instead of two or more smaller ones (which increases costs and under hood clutter).

There are four types of blower that can be bolted on top of your engine which most find impressive. The old school Roots type is what everyone identifies with, but there are twin-screw (Lysholm), and TVS (Eaton) blowers that are smaller and more efficient. Finally instead of using the exhaust to drive a centrifugal turbocharger you can attach a belt to the centrifugal supercharger to loose the plumbing and lag time (at the expense of added parasitic losses due to the power required to drive it coming off the crank). You never run out of power with a supercharger over NOS. If you like buying a new set of rear tires twice a month it is the only way to go.

With any power adder you have to build the engine to compensate for the added power. Which means you have to decide ahead of building it how much power you are going to add ahead of time and to keep your fingers off the boost button once you reach that level until you rebuild the engine again. The time to rebuild an engine is before you scatter it all over the place, not after. Much cheaper that way.

Bigger engines will require more volume (bigger head on a centrifugal blower, or a bigger roots case) to push more air. The Lysholm and the Eaton are limited in the displacements offered (most are sized for a 302 to 350 size motor). In terms of a Roots do not even think about a 6-71, an 8-71 is the base size; but I would use a 10-71 or a 14-71 to keep the air flow up and the heat of compression down on any motor bigger than a 555.

Just keep in mind the bigger the blower the higher the parasitic drag so the higher the boost has to be to compensate which is where a centrifugal blower really shines. Just keep in mind that the belt to drive a centrifugal blower is their Achilles' heel. By-pass the serpentine and go straight to the cog belt.

Big Dave
 

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I'm not the oldest on the Team. There are some guys over on Team Camaro that used to paint on cave walls.

Big Dave
l:) I am sure there is quite the age span on here and all the other similar forums. That nice, thats why I am on here, because the knowledge you guys are sitting on is priceless.
 
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