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Installed new rear disc kit,new seals in front calipers ,ss wilwood brake hoses, new 4 wheel disc manual master cylinder 1" bore.new 4 wheel disc proportioning valve brakes all bled.with proportioning valve plastic tool.still very little brakes,and bench bled master cylinder. Please help.
 

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I had a similar problem. I found that the push rod coming out the booster was too long and not letting the master cylinder reset. You can buy a tool to measure it. I'll attach a picture of one. Hope this helps.
 

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Yes, after a lot of air bled out. Still no pedal.
Put a power bleeder on it and open all the bleeders for all the brakes.
Make SURE you have no air in the system.
If that doesn't fix it, see if there's an adjustment for the brake travel on the new rear discs you put on.
By nature, disc brakes should be self-adjusting, but I seem to remember some of the factory 4-disc setups I've worked on had adjustable rear brakes.
Also, is there any kind of an adjuster on the rod that connects the master to the brake pedal?
Might wanna look at that, too, but try bleeding and rear brake adjustment (if possible) first.
 

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I had a similar problem. I found that the push rod coming out the booster was too long and not letting the master cylinder reset. You can buy a tool to measure it. I'll attach a picture of one. Hope this helps.
Try capping off the flex lines and see if that makes your pedal hard this way here you will eliminate all the calipers
 

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Try capping off the flex lines and see if that makes your pedal hard this way here you will eliminate all the calipers
IF you do that, be sure to use APPROVED CLAMPS that were made for clamping off brake lines!
We used to call them "Line Locks" in my day, but they're the best way to do it.
If you use something like vice grips, the square edge of the jaws will put a permanent kink in the wire mesh that reinforces the hose and can end up splitting the hose and create a weak spot which can eventually burst if not remedied.
$12. Cheap insurance that keeps your car safe and on the road.
 

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IF you do that, be sure to use APPROVED CLAMPS that were made for clamping off brake lines!
We used to call them "Line Locks" in my day, but they're the best way to do it.
If you use something like vice grips, the square edge of the jaws will put a permanent kink in the wire mesh that reinforces the hose and can end up splitting the hose and create a weak spot which can eventually burst if not remedied.
$12. Cheap insurance that keeps your car safe and on the road.
I thought maybe with the new Wilwood brakes you had went with the braided lines you cannot clamp them off you use hydraulic plugs and they screw into the end of the fitting.
 

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I thought maybe with the new Wilwood brakes you had went with the braided lines you cannot clamp them off you use hydraulic plugs and they screw into the end of the fitting.
If all else fails you could try using the clear tigon tubing and from each bleeder back to the master cylinder you will move the pedal back and forth and remove all the air from the line and you will be able to see air in the clear tubing do that on all four corners on the T buckets with a lower master cylinder that's the way you have to do them never had much luck with pressure bleeding
 
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