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Discussion starter · #42 ·
Well. After buying a pos center section for the trunk pan, I decided to go ahead and make it fit properly. I only had to add 1.25" to each side (to get the weld seam on top the frame rails) Then I finished cleaning the trunk area up to check for fit, and found that the pan is also cut 1" too short to fit up at the factory seam, so.... here we go again... Let's add another inch in the front. I think all the money saved by purchasing the center section will be spent in labor, welding wire, and gas....






I figured since I was going to open the POR15 to coat the inside of the trunk braces, and I ruined the can trying to open it, I would go ahead and coat some of the metal that will be hard to get to later on, and then some....





 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Not really any do's or dont's, but try to find DOM tubing instead of welded. The tolerences are much tighter and it will take some of the "Slop" out of the way it functions for you. It is one of 5 that I have, and all are home-built.

Well.... finally have the welding on the trunk pan finished. That is the modifications I had to make to it are welded up now. I have some grinding to do as well. It is fitting very well, but I am not going to weld it in until I have finished the tubs and rear hinge brackets. It should be fairly seamless once it is final welded and ground down....

Looking back, I believe we would have been money ahead to have purchased the entire trunk floor, vs modifying this one to suit us.

Some shots of it for you ......




 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
Ed is wanting to move the gas filler from the quarter panel to either the trunk, or under the license plate. Have any of you tried this yet?
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
Started patching the front passenger floor pan. The patch panel isn't perfect, but it is usable...




Just have a bit more patching to do underneath and the floopan will be somewhat finished in that area. If you look at the bottom of the front framerails, you will see years of lifting the car by these areas. I am going to clean up and plate the bottoms of them to smooth them out. Started fitting the new rear crossmember as well, yesterday... I had to remove the outer flange to clear the new mini-tubs...





I think we will plug-weld the frame rails, from the inside, to the new rear cross-member before we plate the rear framerails.
 
Nice car did you have to replace munch of the metal?
I am building one that was a complete mess had to replace fire wall complete floor pan both quarters rear frame rails rear body panel both rockers. I am putting a Scotts hotrods sub frame and TCI four link. Just got it in primer last week.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Nice car did you have to replace munch of the metal?
I am building one that was a complete mess had to replace fire wall complete floor pan both quarters rear frame rails rear body panel both rockers. I am putting a Scotts hotrods sub frame and TCI four link. Just got it in primer last week.
Thanks Jeff,

When it's all said and done, I will have replaced a very small portion of the floor pan, NOS fenders, one door skin (Dents, not rust) center of the trunk pan, mini-tubs, both quarter panels, minor repairs, and a new steel cowl induction hood. I have started with much worse than this. It really is a pretty decent car by todays standards. Hard to find one much cleaner to start with.

Sounds like your car is gonna be pretty cool finished.... Love to see pics of it.
 
Jeff: I just install DSE tubs, Heidts 4-link in my 66 sedan, Next is my scott's hot rod front sub-frame. Motor is a new LS376/515hp (carb), TKO 600 and a 3.23 gear in my 9" and vintage air. If I can help please feel free to reach out to me.
















 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Thanks. A little progress made this evening....

Made the outer framerail piece for the passenger side this evening, and have it ready to weld out. I fit the front of it inside the framerail so that I can plug weld it to reinforce it that much more. Almost ready to weld in. I want to plug weld the rear crossmember thru the inside of the framerail before I box the outside.




Just need to finish shaping the top of the trunk floor on this side....
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
While I am waiting to weld in the rear crossmember, I decided to go ahead and make the repairs to the outer edges of the trunkpan and tailpanel behind the bumper. Hopefully we will be welding in the rear crossmember this weekend.







Also, started bolting the front suspension back together after everything was painted and powdercoated...



 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Okay... Front suspension is finished and ready to install on the car. Rear end is powdercoated and ready to assemble. Only a little metal work left, then time to install the rear quarterpanels.





Rear decklid is fitted. The rear wheelwell braces for the trunklid hinges still need fabricated and installed.




Crossmember and rear suspension bars are powdercoated and ready to install...




Rear housing is ready.... for assembly.




Ididit column and linkage ready for install....



Final sheetmetal work to be finished in the next couple of weeks....
 
Strange sells a 12 bolt gear set to fit in your nine inch housing (though I think it takes a different aluminum case to use the Spicer gear without the parasitic lose associated with a nine inch rear).

Big Dave
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
Already have a gear set, but thanks for letting me know.
 
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