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As Art mentioned a rebuild kit is cheap. I can also add if you are lacking in confidence a good book to read is this one:

Holley Carburetors (High Performance) by Dave Emanuel

The Holley is very popular not because it is a "better" carburetor than a Carter (AKA Edelbrock), or a Rochester carb; but because they can be quickly and easily disassembled in the pits without worrying about loosing or bending small brass rods or having springs pop off.

All carbs meter the same quantity of gas to the same measured volume of air in a fixed ratio; and as such your engine has no idea what brand is sitting on top of it. Brand loyalty, plating, color have no affect on the engines performance, only the rated cfm will affect that.

A carb needs rebuilding when that ratio of gas to air falls off due to clogged passages inside the carb, or dried out gaskets that allow in excess air (or worse excess fuel to seep out). Many times the problem people have with carbs (assuming it is the correct size carb for the engine) is in having someone adjust the carb to enhance it's performance. This is a big mistake unless you really know what the carb is doing. It is ready to go right out of the box and needs no adjustment ninety percent of the time if you have a near stock motor.

If however you have a race car cam with the requisite headers and intake then odds are you will have to compensate for the poor manifold vacuum associated with a race cam (anything bigger than 225° degrees of duration at a 112° lobe separation angle is pushing your luck with stock carb settings). At this stage adjustments (often permanent unless your carb model has adjustable air bleeds) will have to be made to the carb as well as verifying proper air flow without uncovering your transition slots.

If you have no idea what I am talking about you shouldn't even attempt adjust your carb and have it tuned by a professional, or buy and read the book so that it can assist you in performing the needed adjustments.

Big Dave
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