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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
78 nova 2 door 350/th350 I am having trouble with the blinkers. left side turn signal both blinkers turn on and blink normally like the hazzard lights have been turned on. right side blinker I get 1/2 brightness for both sides and they blink fast like a bulb is out, turn on headlights and both blinkers come on outside the car and stay on but the dash doesnt show them on and neither side turn signal does anything. I have been looking through wiring for that car and I am wondering if anyone has seen a bad ground up front cause an issue like this or if I am likely dealing with an issue in the under dash wiring.
Any help is appreciated.
thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah 62 thats what I was thinking too after going through the diagrams. any chance anyone on here knows where the grounds should be on the front of this car? Ill try tracing wires when I get home but hoping to avoid that if I can.
 

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You can not have a tractor that weighs too much. You can not have too much horsepower . and you can not have too many grounds.

Problem with these old cars is the factory ground straps are removed when you swap a motor; but they are rarely put back in place. And even then, when they are replaced they are trying to ground a low voltage system through nice shinny plastic paint that is an electrical insulator.

This kit has the grounding straps that attaches to the back of the block using the bolts that hols the bell housing on:

https://www.classicparts.com/1969-G...MI2OGZuOzq5wIVUvDACh2esQkHEAQYAyABEgJw8vD_BwE

The other ends ground the body to the motor, the motor to the front sub frame, the motor to the dash and the battery to the body. If you have an aftermarket battery cable or some one took the end off the cable to put on a clamping cheapo you are missing the ground cable that is used by the voltage regulator, as well as the light on the front of the car.

In the rear the gas tank needs a good ground that goes to the frame of the car. The rear lights ground through the metal of the bezel touching the light buckets. So the rear body must nave a good ground.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks big Dave, pretty sure this is an aftermarket negative cable, looks really similar to the one on my El Camino so I am sure they are universal ones.
That being said they do both ground to the body so I will check that first as well as the on on the firewall to make sure they are all grounded properly. I have not see on on the tank but havnt really looked either so I will check that as well. I will let yall know what I come up with.
 

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If your gas gauge works it is grounded, if it doesn't, then odds are it isn't.

I us a twenty five foot long ten gauge wire (a spool of wire from NAPA) with a large (big enough to grasp the negative terminal n the battery) and a probe (a fancy name for a wire coat hanger) of the other end. With one end on the battery I touch things that aren't working to see if they do when they have a ground. Simple test.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great idea with the coat hanger, I usually use them to fish wires through tight spaces lol. I got under it last night for a bit and checked with test light I have good ground to both headlights and right front fender and cable end at fender. I did not check ground at the fuel tank but I can see ground strap connected. no fuel guage does not work but neither does a lot of things in this car, it is a project for sure. I took some pictures I will upload them as soon as I can to show what I am working with. I also had something hard wired to the brake switch wires with a wire tap. 1 white and 1 blue wire. they looked original but I have no idea why they would have been hard wired to the brake switch, one side is power the other is grounded through brake lights so not sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got another question, after doing some more digging this weekend and found the 3 wires that go to the beam selector switch butchered and tied together. It looks like there is enough wire to connect to a floor mounted switch however it seems mine is part of the turn signal lever. anybody have a lever that moves forward and backwards but still has a floor mounted selector switch?
I am fairly confident fixing this will help me correct my blinker issue but who knows lol.
 

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American Auto Wire is your friend, unless you are comfortable in rewiring your car with a fortune in multi colored reels of copper wire (at around $29 a reel) for one of each color in 16, 14, 12, 10 and 8 gage wire. Also recommend a compound action crimper (to relieve fatigue), with removable dies to crimp all of the terminals.

The other alternative is to rewire the car with a thousand foot spool or red 14 gage wire, which will drive the next owner nuts.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
LOL big dave
I already have 6 different colored wires to repair what I need plus I am planning on labeling the few wires I need to fix.
From what I can gather it should have a floor mounted high beam switch and it does not so it looks like they hard wired around this switch creating some of my issue.
I am trying to figure out what the rest of the issue is once I get that part taken care of. Looks like I can just get a few terminal ends and a new switch and see what happens from there.
I am still trying to sort out the issue with my wipers and where my connector went but i am likely just going to buy a new wiper harness and replace the entire thing.
 

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Floor mounted light switches disappeared in 1975. They filled with dirt and moisture caused severe corrosion so they the switch was moved to the steering column like European vehicles had been using since 1968.

There are a lot more than six colors in the wiring harness. I used to have every solid color made (but no striped wires) in common sizes.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Good news, I found what appear to be the holes to mount the floor dimmer switch now I just need to get a switch and the connector to hook up to the harness to add it in then hopefully that will resolve my blinker issue...IF I am lucky lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Got the high beam switch installed and working and all for less than $25.
blinkers are still giving me fits though, I was able to unplug the blinker connector at the steering column and turn on headlights still have both blinkers going on with headlights however I did determine that if I remove the brown wire from the headlight connector and turn headlights on the blinkers stay off and still work the same as with headlights off. I still have both blinkers coming on at the same time but its a step in the right direction I am wondering if I should try to overlay that brown wire from the switch up to the front of the car and see what I get from there?
I did go through shaking and moving the harness around with lights on and had no change so I am not thinking whatever has gone wrong is a solid connection and not something minor.
 
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