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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello to all,I currently have a 1970 nova, it has a 6 cyl. im building a 600 horse 383 for it,and im just getting into nova's,not sure what major changes have to be made in the motor mount department,the cars vin says its a factory v8 car,so i'm geussing that a set of v8 motor mounts should bolt right in,but not sure,its packin a powerglide and i plan on putting in a built turbo 400,will the crossmember/tranny mount line up? i realize i will have to revamp the cooling system wich is no prob,also it has a mono leaf in the back,i have a set of competition engineering "slide a link" trackion bars,will this combo hook up with a set of street slicks on it? also not sure what headers are needed for this car,i wanted to run schoenfeld headers(my buddy has a set on his malibu drag car) but there is no listing for such headers,what is unique about these cars on the headers standpoint? not sure just lookin for some info thanks for any input!!!!
thanks-Dan 70novadisease
 

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Dan 70novadisease

A 1970 Nova came with a 8.2" ten bolt rear end unless it was an SS car then it would have a twelve bolt and multi leaf rear springs. An 8.2" ten bolt will break with a mild 350 and slicks. You will at a minimum need to find an 8.5" "Corporate" ten bolt, or go with an aftermarket twelve bolt with everything you need already correctly installed in the new high nickel case with heavy thick wall fully welded axle tube and the C-clips replaced with 9" Ford bearings.

The 383 will bolt right up to the existing chassis frame mounts (I would replace the old existing rubber clam shell motor mount with a polyurethane one). You just have to buy the standard steel replacement clam shell style motor mount that bolts to the block.

You will have to replace the PowerGlide™ cross member with a TH400 cross member as they have different mounting holes. The TH400 mounting holes are already drilled in your sub frame, for your new aftermarket double hump cross member for your dual exhausts to clear.

I recommend an aluminum aftermarket radiator (Griffin if you can find one, or Be Cool if not).

I have a set of competition engineering "slide a link" traction bars, will this combo hook up with a set of street slicks on it? Yes; if adjusted correctly. You will also need a frame connector kit and polyurethane frame bushings to maximize weight transfer and limit body flex.

Schoenfeld headers are made for your Nova. If they are not listed as such just choose the size tube you want for a first generation ('67-'69) Camaro. I recommend the 1-5/8th inch tube size as it will work just fine with any closed up exhaust system with no appreciable lose in horse power compared to the 2 inch sized tubes because once you cap the exhaust the scavenging effect from sonic pulses (standing wave tuning) is lost. The smaller the tube the more low to middle RPM torque you will build (were you most commonly spend time driving), and the better the fit.


Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thank u very much big dave,im not sure whats in the car for a rear end,i think its the 8.2,i planned on upgrading to a 12 bolt with strange shafts etc. i wanna get the motor and tranny in and go stomp it down once in front of the house and see how far the parts will fly-:thumbsup: i'd like to get a good aluminum radiator then get the electric fans/shroud as a package then wire up a thermostat switch,that was my thoughts.do u have a recomendation for shocks/springs for a whell rounded street/strip car? it has junk air shocks on it right now,i was gona put a set of adjustable valve shocks off my race car on it,but im not sure if thats the way to go,i heard the "mono" leaf is the way to go for hookin up but not sure it thats just bar stories. let me know--thanks!!!!-Dan
 

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Just a few thoughts, as I have a 383-powered '70 Nova as well.

Between myself and 2 friends that also have Novas (one big block and one small block) we've tried a bunch of things to see what works.

A couple suggestions:

I tried both a set of Hedman 1-5/8" headers as well as 1-3/4", and the bigger tubes were worth about a tenth of a second in the quarter. If you're building a motor to make that much power, I'd use # 65003 on the headers with a good 3" exhaust system (I've used a 3" Magnaflow and Flowmaster kit, and the Magnaflow system made 14 more rwhp).

Griffin or Be cool works good for a radiator choice. Team with a set of Spal fans or a Flex-A-lite black magic or black magic extreme for cooling.

For suspension, C/E Slide-a-links are good choice. I think Cal-Tracs are a shade better, but to each his/her own. I'd team whichever you choose with a set of adjustable shocks in the back (Calvert Racing rec's Rancho shocks. Don't laugh, I've gone 1.46 60 foots on a 10" slick), and a set of 90/10 shocks (I use Lakewoods) in the front with Moroso trick springs for max weight transfer. Mono-leaf springs are a better choice over multi-leaf for traction in my opinion. I found a factory 12-bolt and use that and have had great success with it holding up, but as mentioned above don't overlook the possibility of finding an 8.5 10-bolt, or even using a 9" housing (early Mustangs and Mavericks are good locations to find em)

Good luck!

Derek
 

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whats up dan. if your motor is putting out 600 hp you will need the biggest headers you can find 1 3/4 tube size could get you by but your motor would like some 2'' tubes if you can find a set. as far as the rear end goes i run 11's with my stock 8.2 ring gear 10 bolt. it has 3:73 richmond gears and an auburn posi. my friend don has a 64 nova and his best time is 10:13 with his stock 8.2 ring gear 10 bolt same gears and posi as me. and he pulls the front end off the ground about 6''-8'' don't get me wrong a 12 bolt or a 9'' would be better but it can be done on a 10 bolt....steve
 

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Since from 2drwagon's moniker I assume he is running an early Nova as is his friend with the '64. In race trim the early Nova will tip the scales at under 2,500 pounds, A typical '70 Nova on a diet will waddle across the scales at 3,200 pounds (most are looking at 3,600 or better). The 8.2" 10 bolt has notoriously weak spider gears in the differential and I do not recommend putting money into them.

The 8.2 was offered by the factory with 6 bangers and 2 bbl equipped V-8's because they couldn't generate enough torque to break them. That same factory offered the 8.875" 12 bolt for any other application, because the factory engineers thought that any thing other than a 2 barrel V-8 would break a 8.2" ten bolt; but then what could they know about it. The Corporate 10 bolt was a compromise introduced in the age of smog control crippled small blocks after the death of the passenger car equipped with big blocks. It was "good enough" for the day (the day being defined as the five year warranty period the rear was expected to last). I admit the 8.5" 10 bolt is much better than a 8.2", but still not as good as the 12 bolt which costs the same as an aftermarket 9" rear when both are built. I personally think the 12 bolt is far superior to the 9" rear end and run one with my 582 BBC pumping out over a thousand horsepower (with a judicious application of a little giggle gas).


Big Dave
 

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2500??????? i wish. well in 1965 the curb weight of a nova wagon with a 283 was 3150 pounds and in 1970 a 2 dr nova with a 307 curb weight was 3143 pounds not to big of a differance there. yes my wagon is now a 2dr but i do have a full interior headliner to the carpet with both bench seats. so no it is not under 2500 pounds. the rear end has been in the car now for 6 years and has over 500 passes on it and many bottles of giggle gas. on slicks with a 3500 stall and the giggle gas the car runs consistant 11''s and drives home from the track (no trailer queen)..........sorry for the moniker
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for all the info gents,here's a quick question im runnin 4.11s in the car right now,gona run a three speed automatic, im gonna pick up a set of the micky et streets,any suggestions on tire heith? not to sure what to start at for a size any suggestions? also where can i purchase a double hump cross member for that gen nova,did some research and didn't come up with much need it to clear the exhaustthanks!!:) Dan
 

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The vendor you are looking for can be found here:

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/gforce_double_hump_crossmembers_.htm

With a 1:1 final drive you will be buzzing the motor at cruise if you are going to be doing any extensive driving. I personally run 4.56:1 rear gears in my car but I have a 4L80E overdrive transmission to cut that down to a more manageable 3.19:1 while driving around even then with 27 inch tall tires I'm twisting 3,200 at 70 mph.

The taller the tire the more it kills the gear but the squirllier your ride will be as you will have taller side walls which on slicks (even DOT street slicks) tend to flex easily. I would look around for a 700R4 to replace your three speed unless you have a lot of money tied up in it.

Big Dave
 

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I'd try 28 x 11.5 ET Streets if you go bias ply, or 275/60/15 in radials. I've run both and they fit with the right backspacing, a little outer lip rolling, and the BFH wheelhouse mod :clonk:

I agree that the 4.11 gears might be a bit much. That motor will likely make PLENTY of torque to get you moving. Try 3.73 gears instead, and your cruising will be far more enjoyable.

Derek
 

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i would go with the 28 11.5 et street tire ,and ft least 1 3/4 header if not a 1 7/8 ot 2in if ure motor really makes that kind of power. The factory mono is better that the multi leaf for a # of reasons on e is that they are lighter another is that the multi creates friction between the leafs, a mono
leaf will work better with an auto car. if the car really will have that much power i would look at the calvert leafs, soild body bushings . depending on the front end weight i can give u a part # for a coil that will work well. i have alot of time and research into this seeing as how we are building a car that is going into a class with stock suspension and that same size tire
and the cars are running 9.0's and 8.9's. if the car is a motor car u can run the 4.11 gear, but if u are gonna squeeze the thing i would run a 3.89
gear. u can ask any questions and i hopefully can get u an answer
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yeah i the motor will be in the 600-650 range naturally asperated,beleive me,i've got countless hours on the pc and on the couch with my calculator engineering this motor from the ground up,i plan on hiting the mouse motor with a 50-100 shot of happy juice,i was going to drop a set of moroso springs in the front,i personally installed a few sets in buddies drag cars and they work pretty good,also villian recamended them also,always open to input. i didn't get to wear i got in the stock car world being stubborn!!!i like to listen and keep my mouth shut and just take it all in! i planned on buying a set of shoenfeld 1 7/8 headers for the motor, i want to wait and mic the runner bore first, so i know exsactly what i want,the runners will not be factory dart casting when done.The motor has a callies crank,oliver rods,je pistons and the cam shaft is a solid roller in the 620 lift range with 290 degrees of duration,thats the bottom end the rest is top secret.....lol.the motor will be set up to scream 7500 all day so i figured the 4.11's would be worth a try,but as in my stock car test and tune is the only way to get fast.i am interested in the leaf numbers as well as bushings,i know a guy that has a 500 horse 355 that runs the C E slide a links with stock mono's and he turned them into a "Z" at the track so that is why i would like to upgrade.i am the kinda guy that isn't afraid to spend money on cars if i got it,mainly because i like building stuff right the first time instead of cobbing it together then breaking down every hundred feet. also what rims do u think would work well with those tires? i want something nice looking but not sure on offsets.i don't want weld becuase everyone and they'r brother runs those.... Dan- :thumbsup:
 

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It All Depends What U Want To Do With The Car But I Would Not Use The Pollybushings For The Body. I Talked With Phil From Pmr He Is The Guy Who Built Artis Houstons Car A Stock Suspension Nova That Ran 8.16 On A 275 Radial, And Spent Alot Of Time Just Bs'n With Him And Trading Ideas Back And Fourth. Im Like U And Am Will To Ask For Advice. As Far As Tire And Wheel Size I Chose To Run An 8 In Wheel But U Can A Run A 10 In Wheel To Push The Foot Print Out Farther. I Have A Narrowed 9in Thats Back Braced
With Wilwod Brakes, So I Chose A B/s Of The Wheel I Liked And Built The Rearend To Fit Those Whels Were I Wanted. U Could Even Run A Deeper Gear If U Wanted Like A 4.33 Or 4.56 I Have Done This On A Few Cars That I Have Helped Setup Cars Run Really Well On The Motor, But The 4.11 Or 3.89 Would Be A Good Gear If N2o Will Be Used A Bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hey do any of u guys have any idea why competition enineering are such dumb ass's? i went on their web site and red up on their frame connectors,bought a set and installed them last night. on their web page it states-- hold on i'll cut and paste for accuracy---"They may be bolted in and welded for additional chassis strength. Bolt-On Frame Connectors do not move the rear leaf springs inboard." as i read this and believe it i weld them in,shortly after i decided to have a victory cig, apon inspection as to install my "slide a links" i notice the frame connectors are so close the the front leaf bolt,that its damn near impossible to get it out. why in the heck would they tell you that? I have know one to blame but myself for not checking first,so im not placing blame just letting others know and to wonder if they didn't do enuff research on this subject.now i have to sit down and figure out how to get those damn bolts out without recking anything.......:clonk: -Dan
 
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