Chevrolet Nova Forum banner

64 Nova 350 Engine Install

5K views 19 replies 3 participants last post by  Stevie T 
#1 ·
OK I took out a 350ci from the car and removed the complete steering system and I installed a Flaming River Rack & Pinon setup with a new steering column. I bought a new 350ci / 425 motor and was told that the rear sump oil pan would work. Well I found out the hard way that's not true. The oil pan would hit the rack supporting cross member and would also crush the lines above the rack. When I called the engine builder he then said that it wouldn't work and that I needed a front sump oil pan with a oil pump extended sump to go to the front. I never even saw something like this on a small block, have any of you? If you know what I am going through or have any suggestions or comments, I would be very happy to hear from you.
 
#3 · (Edited)
1962-'67 Novas used a special front sump oil pan, a unique cylinder block with a different clutch ball mounting hole and recessed oil filter, oil pump drive shaft, and oil pump pick up. Or you could order a full front aftermarket clip and keep your existing oil pan set-up. (personally I believe the pan kit is the cheaper solution).

Big Dave
 
#5 · (Edited)
This has really turned out to be a nightmare. No one can come up with an oil pan that works with this Flaming River rack & pinion setup that I have installed. I am racking my brains out trying to figure out what to do. Does anyone have any suggestions. I have posted 2 pictures for you to see what I am up against.
 
G
#6 ·
Steve, does Flaming River sell that rack as a specific ChevyII rack kit ? if so what do they say about the pan ?

have you got the V8 frame mounts already ? if so have you mocked up a block in the compartment to see where/what the pan issues will be ?

are you going to have to run a rear sump or a front sump... do they give you any word on that ?
 
#7 ·
From what I see in the picture you will have problem with anything short of a dry sump oil pan. Looks like the rack installed on the tie rod which barely clears the stock front sump and hits a rear sump. I would think you will be building your own pan for this one unless Flaming River has one already speced out at Milodon, Moroso , or Stephs.

Big Dave
 
#8 ·
I have contacted Flaming River and I am still awaiting a reply from them. If anybody should know what fits it should be them. There was a 350ci motor in the car when I bought it and it had a Milodon pan that went around the steering bar. But this rack unit would need a very big cut out in order for it to clear the rack cross member.
 
G
#9 ·
i don't know if you're close enough to anyone that'd have a front sump pan for you that could be test fitted... i'm way out on the other side of the great Ol'USA but i believe i still have a somewhat rusty ol' front sump V8 pan floating around in my shop. if you'd be interested maybe something can be worked out.


JR
 
#10 ·
Also if you still have the old pan that you did have, perhaps you can just open up the opening to make it wide enough to clear the rack cylinder????? Would be easier to find someone to mod the old pan if it COULD work, if you ask me. Any aftermarket product would just be a modded deal anyway, so might just try and see if it's possible to modify the old pan to clear the cylinder. Hope you get it figured out! :yes:
 
#11 ·
Well I called Flaming River and I am amazed that they had no answer for me except that I needed a front sump oil pan, which one they couldn't tell me? I am very dissapointed with them. They make a rack and pinion for a 64 nova but they dont know what pan fits? I have spoken to a tech at Chevy II Only and they told me that they will send me a setup that should work. I wont know till I get it and try it out. It consists of a front sump oil pan, new oil pump, rod, extended pickup and support bracket. This is a nightmare which I hope I wake up from.
 
#12 ·
Well I sure hope that what they send you will IN FACT work!!! But even if not, fear not, where there is a will there's a way and you may have to modify the installation of your rack if necessary but I think the rack and pinion steering will make it all worthwhile when it's finally over. Hang in there Steve we're all pulling for you to get this resolved as painlessly as possible.
 
G
#14 ·
Steve, with the front sump pan and the oil pump's pick up you'll see that the pick up has an extended tube/screen that reaches into the sump (you'll see it when ya get it) well, install the pick up in the oil pump and mark the location the pick up's bracket meets the main webbing... you'll need to drill & tap a 1/4-20 hole in the main webbing of the block to bolt the screen to the block so it doesn't vibrate.

same thing i had to do on my ol' '65 wagon... same as everyone that runs a non chevyII V8 block in their cars so don't let this bother ya. i looked through all my files to see if i had a picture for ya but i don't.

once you get the pan & pump etc you'll see exactly what i'm talking about. once ya get it all done, make sure ya use some loctite on that 1/4-20 bolt ;)

also, the pan is designed for a 283 or a 327, NOT a 350. so you'll find that due to the 350's larger counterweight on the crank that it'll hit very slightly on the rear passenger side of the pan... just dimple the pan very slightly and yer done. this too is very common so again, don't let it bug ya.
 
#15 ·
Pans dimple a lot easier if heated to cherry red first then dimpled. If you bolt a piece of angle iron to the pan rail it will keep the pan flange from moving while you beat on it and help keep the pan rail flange flat and straight. Also gives you something to bolt onto a bench vice to give you a free hand while working the metal. Reheat to cherry red and let air cool. That will quench the pan and relieve any stress risers formed by beating on it so it won't crack at that point.

Big Dave
 
#16 · (Edited)
ok here is what I ordered from Chevy 2 Only
13100
01002
01002-1
01040
01040-1
01003
01004
01005
01006
I sure hope it works out for me.
I didn't get the oil pan gasket since I was figuring that I would use the brand new one that I have.
What do you think guys?
Here are some more pictures of the rack and what I am up against.
Thanks for all the feedback!
 
G
#17 ·
Steve, did you already order everything ?

the 01040 & the 01040-1 are the same thing... no biggie it's a freeze plug to block off block dipstick hole.

i'm wondering if the items haven't yet been shipped you'd call them back and inquire about a kit. i know when i bought my pan etc from them they had everything i needed in a kit. i see you're getting the kick out pan where i got a std pan so maybe that's where the difference is... just asking though.

if they do have it all in a kit i think it might save ya a few bucks ;)

i checked all the numbers for ya. i'm thinking there's a small typo though regarding the 01040-1 number, i think it'd be the 01004-1 which is the drive sleeve ;)

you have everything else listed correctly. ;)
 
#18 ·
Small block Chevy kick-out oil sumps average 7-7/8th inch to 8-1/4 inch depending upon the model or application. They are a necessity if you have dropped the car's ride height to improve the "stance". A deep sump pan will be dragging on every speed bump otherwise. Most kick-out pans are the same depth as the stock pan and they increase oil capacity by adding wings and internal baffling, with one way doors, to control the oil in the pan and keep it away from the crank. All of that extra work makes a kick -out pan more expensive than a deep sump but in my opinion well worth it.

Big Dave
 
#20 ·
There wasn't really any difference ordering the conversion kit because the kit came with motor mounts and I did not need them, but thanks for looking out! I still haven't received the pan or the rest of the parts, that will be Monday so time will tell? I keep my fingers crossed.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top