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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was hoping someone could give me some insight on my quest for a 1000 hp car, i am building a 71 nova and my goal is 1000 hp street car, so i know i have a lot to consider, some of my main questions revolve around what transmission options i have and which of those i would have to modify the floor, i need to make a decision as i have the floors cut out right now and would like to leave the floor stock if i could. Also what are some good engine builds for a stroked small block twin turbo set up that could produce these numbers reliably Thanks
 

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Well if you got 1.2 horsepower per cubic inch which is the amount of power a normaly aspirated big block Chevy produces as you see them in most car mags (that is running on pump gas); you would need a 833 cubic inch BBC. They make them that big and they are sold for about $68,000 as a motor that big will use a 5.3 inch cylinder spacing so there are no Chevrolet parts used except the timing cover. If you increase your compression from 9.4:1 to run on pump gas and bump it up to 15:1 to run on 114 octane racing fuel you can get by with a 667 cube motor and your costs drop down to about $38,000.

Most crate 582 cubic inch big blocks will pump out 750 to 850 horse power. You can use one or two stages of Nitrous-oxide to get to your 1000 horse power goal. Once again expect to pay about $34,000 for the motor and about another $4,000 for the nitrous bottles, lines, solenoids, purge valves and heaters.

By the way unless you are running an eleven inch strange rear end (it looks like a Ford nine inch and a lot of people can't tell the difference and think a nine inch will hold a thousand horse power) or a Dana 60 you are going to break any other rear end out there if you get a tire to hold. Transmission has to be built for that level of power so expect to buy a Lenco, or PowerGlide built out of unobtanium.

Big Dave
 
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do you have any idea what the costs will be to get that 1000hp number ?

i'd start calling around custom machine shops... make sure you're laying down with a pillow so ya don't get a bump on yer head from falling down :yes:
 

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I have built a few that out put over a thousand horsepower but those that were actually running gasoline used nitrous and were built from the ground up as a nitrous motor. They were not designed to run on pump gas and though not to radical (compared to trying to get a thousand horse power out of a 406) wouldn't exactly work on the street. Most were alcohol blown motors for a T/A rear motor digger (two 496 motors and one 540).

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
To answer a few questions i have already put a four link rear with a ford 9 inch 3.77 true trac posi, so from the sounds of it it won't hold up to 1000 hp so with this setup, what hp range do you think i should shoot for and yes i do have an idea of what it costs, i was merely interested in peoples opinions of what would be a good combination for the entire driveline to work well together
 

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To ask a basic question how fast do you want to go? And are you willing to put your car on a serious diet (to the point that it will be no longer able to be street driven), as power and weight are the two deciding factors.

Everybody thinks power is the end all and be all, but it isn't (there are fifteen guys every week just about who make close to 1700 horsepower with a measly 500 cubic inch motor, and they loose to the guy with the ability to do a better job of getting his 1700 horsepower to the ground. Usually it is a different guy every week as track conditions, and weather (and yes driving ability also factor into into it).

Only took me about thirty years of building bigger and badder and more expensive motors to figure that out for myself (this was before the internet solved all peoples problems).

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well i would be extremely happy if i could get into the low 9s and be able to drive it on the street, so i have already reduced some weight without making it non street legal, and a glass hood is on order, but i'm also putting a cage in it and a couple of added anti sway bars and such but the new tubular front sub frame that i have seems to be a lot lighter than the stock front clip. So i would even be happy with something around 700 hp on pump gas that i could drain the cell put in race gas and make more power, i've read up on a few setups, I should be able to fit 12'' wide tires after the mini tubs are in so in theory it should hook up right? . . . just tryin to get my plan finalized, and it sounds like so far my only limiting factor is my ford 9 inch on the 1000 hp mark
 

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Ford nine inch design will hold a thousand horse power but it won't have any Ford parts in it.

Strange Engineering sells all the parts you need machined from titanium and other exotic aluminum alloys. Keep in mind drag gear sets (designed to bend instead of break under the shock of a hard launch) won't last more than a couple of hundred miles on the street as they are not hardened against wear. You will be running a spool in your nine inch with 35 spline axels as well a most posi units can not handle that level of power.

I know a Detroit Locker made for a Dana 60 will, but it limits the size of your axel if you don't run a spool which wont work on the street (I love the idea of 45 spline axels but hate the idea of a spool on the street).

The housing has to be able to support the same load as the case so you will need a beefed up aftermarket fully gusseted and braced nine inch housing to go with your new Strange Engineering center section. The stock unit will open up like a can of sardines dumping gear lube on the track as the factory welds open.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My ford 9 is a currie built fully aftermarket from tci, i guess i need to make a phone call and see what they rated it at, i asked for a really well built nine, So do you think that would hold up if i run a 7 to 8 hundred hp setup on pump gas and only ocasionally change the timing and put race gas in to run it at the track?
 

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There was an article in one magazine where I guy built a twin turbo SBC that made 1,000HP. If I remember correctly it was a 69 Nova, and it looked alot like something you see as a daily driver. If you can find that article, you may wanna look at that for an Idea. I beleive the car ran in the very low 9's or high 8's. It was green in color, I cant find the article, but here are a few 1,000HP small block Novas.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0805_409_small_block_chevy_engine/index.html

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/0909phr_1970_chevy_nova/bumper.html

http://www.carcraft.com/featuredvehicles/ccrp_0803_nmca_lsx_shootout/1970_chevy_nova.html
 

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Currie makes good stuff (mostly for 4x4 applicarions but that is good because you need something to resist a lot of torque). Weak pont for a nine inch is the front pinion bearing support breaks and the housing allows movement of the rear end which puts an additional load on axels and side gears inside the case (which can also break from the housing flexing).

800 hundred horsepower is equivalent to a built 555 cid or bigger BBC and a built nine inch rear will stand up to that all day long when properly built with good parts. 800 horsepower is the upper limit of most 12 bolts, and a stock Ford standard nine inch won't handle much more than 400 horsepower without a lot parts being thrown at it.

You are aware that you will need to meet all of the requirements in the NHRA rule book to run between 9.9 seconds and 7.9 seconds and what those requirements are; right?

Big Dave
 

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700 hp will get you well into the 9's. 1000 hp would be low 8's I would guess.

I think the running theory on the thread is that your car needs to be able to handle this kind of power. If you were to put that kind of power into a stock nova, you would twist the body like a tin can.

I would get yourself a stout chassis and brace everything and then put that kind of power to it.

Make sure you take a video. It should be pretty impressive!
 

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So i would even be happy with something around 700 hp on pump gas that i could drain the cell put in race gas and make more power

Ummmm, unless your running on the ragged edge of detonation with the timming retarded massively on the street then just adding racing fuel will not make you much more, if any more, power then street gas will.

The higher octain rating of racing fuel does not mean the fuel contains more "power" as the BTU rating between regular and racing fuel should be the same. What it means is that it has more anti knock properties in it which allows you to run higher compression, more timing, etc..these are the things that make more power not the fuel in and of itself.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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Normally aspirated you make your choice as to the compression you are going to run and buy the fuel to support your dyanmic compression needs. Pro Stock Motor your talking 15.0:1 compression or more and 114 octane fuel. Pump gas is whatever is on the tanker truck when they drop their fuel load, not what it says on the pump (Which is put there by an agriculture agent who checks the pump once a year to once every three years). Do not bet the life of your engine on what that pump tag says (or utlimately what the minimal wage worker driving the delivery truck this week drops into thr tank as they make misakes all the time in loading, mixing and finding the right tank once they get to the station ad 4:00 AM in the morning after working a second job deliverying pizzas earlier in the evening).

If you want to consider a power adder (nitrous, turbo charger, or supper charger) then your intail dynamic timing is very low and you build compression in the chamber as function of engine speed. The higher you twist the motor the more power you make. A blown engine is what you are looking for if you want a mild manered secret identy street car that turns into a capeless super car at the mash of the throttle pedal. There is a reason one of the fastest Pro Mod Cars is wearing Superman's livery.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pro_Modified

Big Dave
 

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Theres a guy here who is street driven (even seen with the kids in rear seat eating ice cream) He has a centrifugal super charged BBC But when he hits the track he runs the 8.50 index (runs a lot faster) all he does is add the good gas and change pulleys... BAMF :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ummmm, unless your running on the ragged edge of detonation with the timming retarded massively on the street then just adding racing fuel will not make you much more, if any more, power then street gas will.

The higher octain rating of racing fuel does not mean the fuel contains more "power" as the BTU rating between regular and racing fuel should be the same. What it means is that it has more anti knock properties in it which allows you to run higher compression, more timing, etc..these are the things that make more power not the fuel in and of itself.

Just my 2 cents.
Sorry i forgot to mention that i would increase the boost to match the higher octane, i did know that
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I really apreciate all this insight, I want to put this thing together the right way, and i am definately beefing up the chassis i already have an entirely new frame and suspension, i am putting a least an 8 point roll cage in it, so i have the chassis covered i beleive, just want to figure out how much grunt i can put under the hood and so far everyone has given me some great insight, and i do know some of the requirements for the different speeds, but i will be sure to look up all of them for the different classes just to be sure i'm doing right, and I will have lots of pics and videos soon, if anyone has any requests of some pics or videos of me actually putting all this together, just let me know and i will have my wife film and will put it on the site
 

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May want to look into a window net and a chute along with a 10 point cage (maybe more) and SFI certs on a lot of things too :yes:

The roll cage of any vehicle running 9.99 or quicker, or 135 mph or faster, must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years, and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation.

A roll bar is required in any convertible running 13.49 seconds or quicker in the quarter mile, and in other cars beginning at 11.49. The roll bar is accepted in vehicles running as quick as 10.00 second e.t., provided the stock firewall and floorboard is intact, other than for installation of wheel tubs. The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 ¾ inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 ¾ x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram:


If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. A full roll cage is required in any vehicle running 9.99 seconds or quicker, and any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram:

 
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