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  #1  
Old Jul 9th, 19, 02:57 AM
railroader railroader is offline
Gary
 
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Default Electric Coolant Fans

Fired up Nova today. Was going to retain clutch radiator fan for now but it has some play on the shaft. Flexing enough that blades of fan randomly hit the nose cover of A/C Compressor. Thinking if I'm going to have to replace fan and I don't have a shroud anyway might as well go ahead and install electric fan. Couple of questions:
What are the recommendations on fan vendors? Single or Double pros and cons?
Not familiar with electric fans, making assumption will need separate heat sensor for fan. Yes / No.
Engine is 350, mild cam. 700R transmission. Nothing fancy or big horsepower.

Appreciate any and all advice.
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  #2  
Old Jul 9th, 19, 08:41 AM
62 NovaWagon 62 NovaWagon is offline
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Art
 
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Default Re: Electric Coolant Fans

There's a lot of options there, personally I'd run dual fans on relays with separate temp sending units, but a two speed fan can also do the job depends on the room and application and usage. Some good reading here.

https://www.google.com/search?client...+electric+fans
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  #3  
Old Jul 26th, 19, 11:19 PM
railroader railroader is offline
Gary
 
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Default Re: Electric Coolant Fans

Decided on Flex-Lite dual two speed fans. Test drive today. Weather 91 degrees, idling - 205 - 210, driving - 190.
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  #4  
Old Aug 2nd, 19, 01:43 PM
Dave Ray Dave Ray is offline
 
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Default Re: Electric Coolant Fans

Fix the timing situation, adjust the carb, and GO BACK TO THE A/C STOCK FAN SETUP.

Stock A/C fan clutch, fan with as many blades as you can find, stock fan shroud, either a Robertshaw or Mr. Gasket "Pressure balanced" 180 degree thermostat, regular, non "under drive" pulleys, and if possible, pop the back cover off the pump, and if the impeller has a closed back, put the cover back on. If not, and the impeller is a stamped steel one, with openings between the fins, add a simple Flow-Kooler block off plate to the rear of the fins. Later pumps have the stamped fins, and they allow coolant to bypass the fins a bit, closing those fins off helps divert coolant to the system, not bypass it.

Now, coolant. I do it a bit different, but you do it the way you want. Green Delco GM anti freeze, and water mix, mild weather, 50/50 mix, extreme hot, 70 percent anti freeze, 30 percent water. My way is to use filtered tap water, as it is not mineral starved, as other "treated" waters are. Mineral starved water is hungry for elements and minerals, so, they go eating, stuff like cast iron, aluminum gasket materials. Tap water ain't hungry.

Notes on the thermostat,

Depending on the engine metallurgy, cast iron/cast iron, 180 deg/F, cast iron/aluminum, 192/195, all aluminum, 200/205 deg/F. Aluminum bleeds heat off a lot faster than cast iron, so, any aluminum in the heads, increase the system temperature. Aluminum intake manifolds do not change combustion chamber heat build, nor heat dissipation transfer.

Pressure balanced thermostats have a barrel shaped flow valve in them, as opposed to the stock flat plate ones. It is very easy to pressure flow forced close a flat plate thermostat, virtually impossible to pressure flow close a barrel shaped valve.
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