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  #1  
Old Jan 11th, 20, 01:50 AM
alloy alloy is offline
Dan
 
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Default T56 swap floor board reinforcement

New guy here.


I'm going with a T56 and LS 6.0 in my 70.


I need to cut the floor brace for shifter clearance and I've seen one persons solutions to this, but I'm looking for alternatives.


I'm doing both driver and passenger floor boards right now and this would be the perfect time to reinforce the floor.


The first pic is one persons solution to the problem. I'm not sure if this is the best solution. I'm thinking about going under the floor board along the back of the brace with possibly some square tubing, or a piece of 1/2" plate cut out to match the contour of the floor bottom and welded in. Since I don't have a tubing bender the 1/2" cut would be the easiest way for me. Ideally I'd like to go the full width of the car with a piece of square tubing. I can buy a harbor freight tubing bender, but that's only for round tubing and that would be much more difficult to weld in. I've not cut the floor yet for the T56, still thinking about which way I want to go.


I've made a crude sketch on an existing pic of what I'm thinking about for my under floor brace. I wouldn't go full width of the floor pan with the plate, maybe 24 inches but would with square tubing. I just don't know where I can get the tubing bent.


Any thoughts or ideas you may have on this would be appreciated.







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Old Jan 11th, 20, 03:58 AM
Big Dave Big Dave is online now
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Default Re: T56 swap floor board reinforcement

Half inch plate? Are you building an APC?

If you don't have a tubing bender (and I didn't for a long time using telephone poles or what ever round objects I could find to make bends) you cut the tubing into sections and weld it back together, in a bent form. All you are looking to do is to reinforce where it was cut out. You can use sliced and sections of a 2"x3" 0.120" wall rectangular tube to build a closed box to the rear of the tranny to shift the stress aft. Though the part is arched it has little vertical load you are using it to keep the frame rails apart and parallel (to prevent a car from visiting you inside the cabin in the event of a T-bone).

I used to crawl the metal scrap yards looking for drops and small sections of tubing or flat plate for gussets and braces all the time. You pay the same price to take it out of the yard as they pay you to bring metal into the yard. I would drop off scrap metal like a 396 engines or a 283/305/307 engines and take out what I wanted to build trailers or whatever fixtures and jigs I needed.

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Old Jan 11th, 20, 01:10 PM
alloy alloy is offline
Dan
 
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Default Re: T56 swap floor board reinforcement

The 1/2" I'm talking about would be under the floor when I sketched lines on the pic.

I hadn't thought about cutting and welding the tubing.

I was debating using some 1/4" on the top bent (or cut and welded) to match the floor contour and the 1/2" on the bottom.

Would rather overkill it than underkill.
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Old Jan 11th, 20, 05:23 PM
Big Dave Big Dave is online now
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Default Re: T56 swap floor board reinforcement

Only one thing comes to mind: f=ma.

You can spend tens of thousands of dollars building horsepower (f is for force), or reduce weight (m as in mass or weight) to get "a" which is acceleration (a better E.T.).

I learned in physics class that shedding weight is just as effective in lowering your Elapsed Time as in building power; and it doesn't cost anything.

Dragsters are called "rails" because in the good old days hot rodders cut the body off of their car to go faster, taking it all the way down to the bare frame RAILS and a wooden orange crate for a seat.

Every 100 pounds of weight removed from the car is worth a tenth of a second off of your E.T. if you have a working suspension and tires to get the power to the ground. I used to "Swiss Cheese" my car bodies with a hole saw and drilled holes in my cast iron I-beam front axle to reduce weight. Two cheap B&D drill motors and countless saw blades later I would have thirty pounds of metal I left at the line. I used cheap plastic B&D drill motors because I spent hours with my arms out sawing upside down or twisted to get at sheet metal hidden from sight.

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