Re: towing a nova (tow hitch)
Two issues Chad. The weight of the tow vehicle, or more importantly the gross weight of the vehicle has to match the combined weight (tare) of the tow vehicle and the dolly and the vehicle towed. This is important so that you will have control over the combined vehicle. There is nothing funnier around here that seeing a fly weight Japanese three quarter ton pick up truck with a twenty four foot cabin cruiser sitting on top of it at a sharp bend in the road. You have to not only have the breaking capacity to stop the combined vehicle weight and the dead weight of the tow vehicle to resist being pushed side ways (jack knifing).
Second issue is the car when towed has to have the drive shaft removed from the rear axle to allow the rear end to rotate freely as it is the ring gear turning that lubricates the bearings. If the spider gears in an open differential are just rotating you will burn up the bearings and ruin your axles. The alternative is to back the car onto the dolly if you have the reach on the dolly tongue to clear the car when turning and then tie off the steering wheel so that it can not move. If you have a short tounge the added distance from the rear axle center-line to the rear bumper (compared to the front axle to front bumper) will cause the vehicle to hit each other.
I currently use a three quarter ton four wheel drive Suburban (with a 502 engine under the hood) for my tow a vehicle as it left the factory with the towing package designed for a 14,000 pound GVW. Prior to that I had a used one ton telephone repair line truck (that lost it's 235 six in favor of a SBC 406) as tow vehicle that replaced a 1954 International Harvester 14 ton Semi cab over truck I found in Arizona to tow my race cars (but I had to scrap it for lack of repair parts; like air brakes). All of these vehicles where designed and built to tow a heavy trailer.