[Big_Red]

Looking to have my SBC dyno tested.

What can I expect for average costs. Plus any hidden costs. Fuel, oil etc..
Loose dyno vs tight dyno. Should race fuel be used
to avoid ping on dyno on a street pump gas motor.
Thanks in advance..

[Little Red Wagon!]

I have done engine dyno once my self soon to be twic. But as far as Fuel, oil, header's and starter. U pretty much half to have all that with U. "MOST" shop's wont have that kind of stuff. Some might have a spair set of header's or starter. But not likely, so make sure U have that stuff B 4 U get there. Time is money when it comes to that. I know one thing, if U have never experience a engine dyno in person. You are in for a treat or nervous time. Depending how strong your nervers are. I know my first/only time there was a wrench lying on top of the dyno that some one forgot to take off. And the darn thing was making a knocking noise at about 5800rpm's and higher. Needless to say it has us all scratching our head's trying to figure out where the noise was comming from. LOL

[Big_Red]

Ok. I guess I should have gave a bit more information.
The engine dyno is right next door to the machine shop/speed shop that is doing the build for me. I live close to 400 miles from there. So this is why I'm asking. The fellow doing the build has been very helpful with helping me out. He is also going to be helping with the dyno and tuning. But I really don't know all the costs. How much per hour/day and any extras.
I know how much they are asking but have nothing to compare it with
Thanks.

[73nova]

The shop i used to work for, he charged an average of $500 on the dyno to break the motor in and usually do three pulls.

[Big Dave]

My machinist charges me $250 for six hours dyno time includes set-up and tear down, and $30 per hour if more time is needed (for tear down and clean up). I don't know if he likes me and gives me a good rate for my continuous business; or that is list price plus a ten percent charge to make up for what a pain I am in testing and tuning.

Big Dave

[71BBNOVA4sp]

Just had a car finished at dyno here in Gainesville FL at $120.00 an hour, good old local speed shops.

[Big_Red]

Here is what has been quoted to me $650.00 for 6 hours. Of dyno time.
That includes my engine builder. Race gas, oil etc..are extra's.
It sounds fair too me. But not having this done before. I had to ask.
Thanks.

[Jimmy71Nova]

I recently got a quote of 700.00 to break it in and do some pulls. Thanks but no thanks, desktop dyno will get me close enough.

[Big Dave]

Actually a desktop dyno will not help you break it in or tune the car. You need actual feed back from the sensors in the dyno cell to determine that (wide band oxygen sensors, air flow sensor, fuel flow sensor, Knock detectors, temperature gauge for water and oil, oil pressure sensor and kill switch, tachometer, and exhaust gas thermocouples).

A desktop dyno is only good for playing "what if" in the design phase of motor construction.

Big Dave

[Little Red Wagon!]

Originally Posted by Big_Red

$650.00 for 6 hours. Of dyno time.
That includes my engine builder. .

If I rember correct, I paid about the same thing. And I think we made about 18 to 19 pull on the E/dyno stand.

[Jimmy71Nova]

Originally Posted by Big Dave

Actually a desktop dyno will not help you break it in or tune the car. You need actual feed back from the sensors in the dyno cell to determine that (wide band oxygen sensors, air flow sensor, fuel flow sensor, Knock detectors, temperature gauge for water and oil, oil pressure sensor and kill switch, tachometer, and exhaust gas thermocouples).

A desktop dyno is only good for playing "what if" in the design phase of motor construction.

Big Dave

You can put it in the car, break it in, buy a a/f monitor, then take it to the track and tune it there for far less than $700.00

At the price you get it though I would do it, but this local $700.00 crap isn't going to fly

[rj67bu]

I'm with Jimmy, I put mine in the car, primed it with oil kicked the fuel pump on checked for leaks and after giving it a good once over fired it up. I let some one else start it while i walked around like a nervous father looking for leaks and listening for problems. the local shop wanted $500 for a dyno session and i considered it but then i thought if it's gonna blow it'll do it on the dyno just as easy as at my house. Knowing the # would be nice but I'll have more fun at the trac during a test n tune

[Big_Red]

Well the other fear is having the engine spin a bearing or something, and builder blaming you.

[Little Red Wagon!]

It's funny SOME people(Not everyone)use the dyno stand for the number's. But I think it should be more for tunning the motor. I know I am peronsaly looking for a number out of my motor but that's not my main goal. Also if I am going to blow up my motor, I would rather do on the engine stand. It's alot easier taking a motor off a engine stand than taking one out of your engine bay. JMO no offense to any one.

PS
I am not trying to sound
pist or any thing. Just wanted
to state an opinion that's all.

[rj67bu]

Big red in you case I guess it would be better to have your builder do the break in and tune. I had my short block assembled and did the rest myself so I had no one to fall back on. I'm sure if something had happened the machine shop could have said it was my fault. But if you decide to have it done will the builder take responsibility for anything that happens during the testing? I'm sure he will but it's always good to ask. whats the compression ratio? Does the builder have any suggestions for fuel is he going to supply the headers you don't want to break a motor in with some nice ceramic coated ones. I changed my oil and filter after 20 minutes then ran it again for another 20-30 minutes until it got to 180-185F then made sure it stayed there. so definitely change the oil.I 'm sure the builder will do all this but is he including it in the session. It's stressful getting a new motor broke in so i geuss it's what makes you feel comfortable