Gotta 1978 nova came with the 6 banger, has the 7.5" rear stock, i now have a 350 in it and the rear will only take so much, looking for a cheap solid replacement soon...
:thumbsup:
any web sites... links something please...
The 9 bolt is not a good choice for replacement. To bad you are so far away. I am having trouble giving an 8.5" away. I bought a built 8.5" rear from big gear head on this site. Price was good and I know the work was done correctly.
By good and cheap I assume you are talking about determining the pricing in your area to see if it is cheaper to buy a rebuilt 8.5 inch corporate ten bolt out of any GM X-body car from 1972-1979, or buy one rebuilt and shipped to your door from a competent rear end shop.
any one know of junk yards, in nj... that would have a 8.5"
or web sites where i can get one shipped?
also how hard are they to replace??
does any one have a diy on how to replace the rear and what tools are needed??
I have 2 of the Nova 8.5 rear ends, but neither one has been rebuilt yet. I can sell you one like it is if you need one bad. I don't know what is in them because I haven't had time to look inside them. The only rear ends that wiil bolt into your car are the '68 to '79 Nova, Omega, Apolo and Ventura. The '72 and later are the only ones that would have the 8.5 rear end. You can also use a '67 to '69 Camaro rear end. The later Camaro rear ends are not going to be a bolt in.
what invloved doing your self is it hard?
so lets say i get a 8.5" from a junk yard what do i do next, rebuild( it i cant do that) or just clean it up and throw fresh fluid in it and bolt it on?
You would ask to see the rear ends from 72 - 79 X body cars.
They are: Nova Omega Ventura Apollo
and in later years the Skylark.
There is also a Cadillac X body and if you find one it will have rear disc brakes.
As far as changing it out. I just took the 7.5" out of the 77 to replace with the 8.5" posi I purchased for the car. Place the car on jackstands in front of the spring hanger. Place another set of jack stands under the rear end. Unbolt the lower shock bolt, unbolt the 4 nuts under the spring plate, remove the drive shaft, undo the hydraulic brake line, unhook the parking brake cables from the intermediate cable. Then lift one side of the rear up and over and put down under the spring, then the other side.
when you swapped the rear out from the 7.5" to the 8.5" do i need a differnt drive shaft also?
what sholud a get with the rear from the junk yard?
also what do i need from the store to get it up and going?
Yes you will need a shorter drive shaft. Here is a photo showing the 7.5" on the left and the 8.5" on the right. There is about 1 1/2" difference. Also an ID chart for the rear ends.
Biggest headache will be bleeding the brake line, which is no harder than normal for a brake job where you rebuild the rear cylinders. Just remember to protect your eyes from dirt grime and metal slivers (but that goes for any work you do on a car).
awesome info, so when i go to the junk yard ill ask for a rear out of one of those cars and the drive shaft too then will that fit properly?
the 8.5" will hold up to how much power?
and whats the stock gears in the 8.5" rears?
yea im looking for a solid 8.5" posi rear so ill go and talk to some guys at the junk yard and ill see what they got then..
i can get the affix codes and decifer them
well my nova is at zip code 08759 in a town called Whiting,
at my partents house, now the nova is a work in progress, i live up north zip code 07009 in nj,
i go down on the weekends, to see family and work on my cars.
I had a 8.5 inch ten bolt with 4.56 gears in the case and an Eaton HD posi with 12 bolt axles. It held up for two years behind a ZZ502-502 and another year behind my 750 horse 582. Of course I have to caution you I never ran a tire bigger than a 255R60-15. Goodyear Eagle tires held better, and lasted longer than the same size Michelin. Slicks are however right out when running the torque numbers that I produce with my big blocks.
So long as the tire is the weakest link, you will keep both your rear end and your tire salesman happy. Be the hero of your neighborhood and the burn out king all you want, but when you get above 450 HP or about 400 ft-lbs of torque it is time to think of a stronger rear end when racing comes to mind.
Dave I will agree with what you posted for a stock rear end, but with 30 spline axles, Eaton posi, welded tubes and 30 spline aftermarket axles the 8.5 canhandle lots more than 400 ft lbs of torque. I am going to put 500 ft lbs thru mine, hopefully by Thanksgiving.
Agreed: modified it works better, last longer. Just cautioning that this rear end was a compromise between the strength of the 12 bolt and the economy of scale of the old ten bolt. There is a solution for every application; but to optimize your fun, buy what you need the first time. A lot of the young guns think that the 8.5 inch is the best there is because they have never seen anything else, and hear only about the aftermarket nine inch as the only alternative.
very true i dont know much but all i see is 9" replacements for like 2,300 i dont have that kind of cash thats why im looking for a rear thats solid and can handle my lead foot...also thats why im looking for help junk yards dont have much... they all need a lot of work.
After a little research I found the Cadillac X body. It is the 75 - 79 Seville, all were 8.5", had rear disc's and will bolt in. If you find one take everything you can, master cyl, booster, proportioning valve, rear lines and hoses and the park brake cables.
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