What can I expect for average costs. Plus any hidden costs. Fuel, oil etc..
Loose dyno vs tight dyno. Should race fuel be used
to avoid ping on dyno on a street pump gas motor.
Thanks in advance..
I have done engine dyno once my self soon to be twic. But as far as Fuel, oil, header's and starter. U pretty much half to have all that with U. "MOST" shop's wont have that kind of stuff. Some might have a spair set of header's or starter. But not likely, so make sure U have that stuff B 4 U get there. Time is money when it comes to that. I know one thing, if U have never experience a engine dyno in person. You are in for a treat or nervous time. Depending how strong your nervers are. I know my first/only time there was a wrench lying on top of the dyno that some one forgot to take off. And the darn thing was making a knocking noise at about 5800rpm's and higher. Needless to say it has us all scratching our head's trying to figure out where the noise was comming from. LOL
Ok. I guess I should have gave a bit more information.
The engine dyno is right next door to the machine shop/speed shop that is doing the build for me. I live close to 400 miles from there. So this is why I'm asking. The fellow doing the build has been very helpful with helping me out. He is also going to be helping with the dyno and tuning. But I really don't know all the costs. How much per hour/day and any extras.
I know how much they are asking but have nothing to compare it with
Thanks.
My machinist charges me $250 for six hours dyno time includes set-up and tear down, and $30 per hour if more time is needed (for tear down and clean up). I don't know if he likes me and gives me a good rate for my continuous business; or that is list price plus a ten percent charge to make up for what a pain I am in testing and tuning.
Here is what has been quoted to me $650.00 for 6 hours. Of dyno time.
That includes my engine builder. Race gas, oil etc..are extra's.
It sounds fair too me. But not having this done before. I had to ask.
Thanks.
Actually a desktop dyno will not help you break it in or tune the car. You need actual feed back from the sensors in the dyno cell to determine that (wide band oxygen sensors, air flow sensor, fuel flow sensor, Knock detectors, temperature gauge for water and oil, oil pressure sensor and kill switch, tachometer, and exhaust gas thermocouples).
A desktop dyno is only good for playing "what if" in the design phase of motor construction.
Actually a desktop dyno will not help you break it in or tune the car. You need actual feed back from the sensors in the dyno cell to determine that (wide band oxygen sensors, air flow sensor, fuel flow sensor, Knock detectors, temperature gauge for water and oil, oil pressure sensor and kill switch, tachometer, and exhaust gas thermocouples).
A desktop dyno is only good for playing "what if" in the design phase of motor construction.
I'm with Jimmy, I put mine in the car, primed it with oil kicked the fuel pump on checked for leaks and after giving it a good once over fired it up. I let some one else start it while i walked around like a nervous father looking for leaks and listening for problems. the local shop wanted $500 for a dyno session and i considered it but then i thought if it's gonna blow it'll do it on the dyno just as easy as at my house. Knowing the # would be nice but I'll have more fun at the trac during a test n tune
It's funny SOME people(Not everyone)use the dyno stand for the number's. But I think it should be more for tunning the motor. I know I am peronsaly looking for a number out of my motor but that's not my main goal. Also if I am going to blow up my motor, I would rather do on the engine stand. It's alot easier taking a motor off a engine stand than taking one out of your engine bay. JMO no offense to any one.:noway:
PS
I am not trying to sound
pist or any thing. Just wanted
to state an opinion that's all.
Big red in you case I guess it would be better to have your builder do the break in and tune. I had my short block assembled and did the rest myself so I had no one to fall back on. I'm sure if something had happened the machine shop could have said it was my fault. But if you decide to have it done will the builder take responsibility for anything that happens during the testing? I'm sure he will but it's always good to ask. whats the compression ratio? Does the builder have any suggestions for fuel is he going to supply the headers you don't want to break a motor in with some nice ceramic coated ones. I changed my oil and filter after 20 minutes then ran it again for another 20-30 minutes until it got to 180-185F then made sure it stayed there. so definitely change the oil.I 'm sure the builder will do all this but is he including it in the session. It's stressful getting a new motor broke in so i geuss it's what makes you feel comfortable:yes:
I have also heard that you use the dyno to tune the motor and whatnot. And I think it's true for sure. But for $700.00 I can buy bolt ons that will give me much more power than what a dyno tune will.
Now give me the big dave prices, then I'm all in.:yes:
Well thank you all for your replies. Looks like most all have the same thing going on in there head about problems with a new build. So a dyno is a good idea..
Average dyno tune here is $700. So I had the digital A/F monitor installed for slightly less, and should never have to do another dyno. And it is really great for monitoring as I change nitrous jetting.
Besides, my slicks are too big to fit on the dyno.
I have never had my cay dyno'd. What is the norm of dyno for you car. Obviously my engine is already broken in, is there a dollar per hour norm for tuning? Who does the tuning? how big of a part do I play in the whole scheme of things? I am there adjusting the timing or do I just hand over the keys to the tech and wait like a nervous dad in the waiting room of a hospital??? lol
We are talking about Engine dynos, which require you bolting down a motor to a stand and going away. The machinist then installs it in the dyno cell and does all of the tuning based upon fuel and air consumption and your desire to reach a certain goal. He swaps carbs and headers to show you the effects those changes make. and adjusts your carb and ignition to optimize horse power (or fuel economy if that is what you want). It is an all day affair usually though he charges by the half day usually, and he doesn't do it on a week end and he has other customers besides me.
If you are on a chassis dyno it will be less involved time wise and the instrumentation will consist of probes stuck in the tail pipe (not nearly as accurate as those found in a dyno cell). Like a race track you are tuning to maximize power at the rear wheel. He will play with what is on the car normally making a couple of pulls to get an optimum (usually three pulls).
Thanks for the info dave. Just wasnt sure. I didnt want to schedule an appointment and show up and look like an idiot unprepared for what I needed to do.
Just had my blown 383 dynoed got a base line before changing a couple of items 699cbhp & 620cft/lbs changed the rockers and installed stud girdles and tuned never found the peak as it made 752 cbhp & 648cft/lbs @7000 on C115 and was looking for 720 to get my goal of mid 9s next year and have some thing left to sell off at the end of the season cost for the day $630.00 well worth it.:yes:
it all depends if the car aint ready then by all means take it to a dyno if you feel like dumping your morgage payment into someone elses pocket if its in the car take it to the track this is the best dyno out there and its way cheaper just think if you break it in the cell they charge you the clean up fee as well as enviornmental fees so its up to you
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