I have a 67 with a small block & a 5 speed Tremec. After purchasing the WHOLE kit including the bellhousing, I seem to have a shifting problem. The trans does not like to engage 1st & 2nd very well. I used a dial indicator to check for runout in the bellhousing & all other procedures were to spec. The car has a hydraulic clutch slave which seems to disengage very well. Furthermore, under power, shifting between 1st & 2nd is not as good as it should be. The kit is from Keisler and I have found a few things to make me suspicious. It is not my intention to fault the manufacturer. Does anyone have any constructive input?

Thanks,

Tim:clonk:

A '67 is pretty light and unless you have tubbed it to install steam roller slicks I doubt you are going to create that much chassis flexing from engine torque because the tires will slip instead. But to cover all angles what motor are you running with the T-5 (and I have to ask what was the donor vehicle), and do you know or can you give a good guestimate of the engines torque? Further, what kind of suspension mods have you made, and do you have a cage?


Big Dave

Dave,

Thanks for the input. The engine is a NAPA crate engine. It is a 350 with ported vortec heads, roller cam with 218 duration @ .050. The engine was dynoed at 459 h.p. with 450 lb of torque. It carries 400 lb. from 3300-5900 rpm. What makes you ask?

Thanks,

Tim:thumbsup:

Dave
Forgot the rest. No chassis mods yet. The car feels kinda loose & the tires hop like the Easter Bunny!

The shift rails are internal on the Tremac and should not give any bother with any gear selection. If the case is flexed due to excessive torque it could bind the shift rails in the case. To control torque on many race cars the engine employs solid motor mounts (and in extreme cases front and rear motor plates). If your rear end is not controlled properly by the springs (I'll bet you have mono leafs) it will do the bunny hop, and that violent loading and unloading of the springs will travel back up the drive shaft (which in this case is acting like an old fashion torque tube) flexing your transmission case.

I would recommend you install some CaTrac traction bars or the Competition Engineering equivalent version of them before you break the case of your tranny. Remember that though Aluminum is relatively malleable it work hardens very quickly becoming brittle.

If you do install solid motor mounts (or my favorite polyurethane) remember to include a transmission mount in the change over.


Big Dave

Dave,

You must be a mind reader. I have a date with the local chassis guru for custom frame connectors and traction bars as you suggested.

Thanks,

Tim