Does anyone have any input about this cam?? I am not familar with camshafts, and it seems like there are endless pages of information about cams. I was just thinking about buying this Speed-pro cam, and was wondering if anyone is currently running this.

Intake: 420 / 278
Exhaust 442 / 288

Any information about cams would be helpful too, especially this one. I have no clue how to read cam specs.

thanks

Does anyone have any input about this cam?? I am not familar with camshafts, and it seems like there are endless pages of information about cams. I was just thinking about buying this Speed-pro cam, and was wondering if anyone is currently running this.

Intake: 420 / 278
Exhaust 442 / 288

Any information about cams would be helpful too, especially this one. I have no clue how to read cam specs.

thanks

Hi Nova, that's an R.V./towing/gas mileage "stick". It has a "rated" RPM range of 1500/4000. Excellent "grocery-getter" cam. The .050" duration is 204/214, the lift you have posted, and uses a 112 ICL. Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I don't what the price of that cam is now, but personally I would choose a Crane "Blue-Racer" series grind for about $75.00. If it's for a 350" unit you're going to want something just slightly "bigger" for any type of decent performance.

Thanks Gary,

I want something streetable, decent idle and sound, good gas mileage, daily driver, and of course the ability to rip your neck back when you want it to. There are just so many different choices. I need something for my 400 SB.

I don't like Speed Pro cams.

What size engine is this for and what is the parts combination?

What do you want your engine to do?

:D

This will be going into a 400 SB. The possible combination will be 882 heads, cam, 750 Holley, and an Edelbrock Performer.

I am hoping to achieve more power without compromising a decent aggressive idle (not too irrate or irritating), streetable for a weekend car and a nice cruise, and the ability/confidence to be able to occasionally burn some rubber on the street.

Will a set of rebuilt 882 heads and the cam make a difference? I currently have stock heads, and an unknown "mild" cam.

I appreciate any advice. Thanks!!!

I would like to recommend a CompCams grind number 265DEH. This is a hydraulic flat tappet cam (part number 12-208-2) with a split pattern (more exhaust lift and duration) whose numbers are 211° intake / 221° exhaust duration @ 0.050" lift, and 0.442"/0.465" lift with a narrow LSA of 110°.

This cam works with stock exhaust (as in using mufflers like most people instead of running uncapped), and has a lot of midrange torque because of it's narrow LSA. It makes power with low (pump gas) compression and doesn't need a high gear (especially with a SBC 400) for street manners. It is at the upper limit on lift for a set of Vortec heads, which I would recommend over the '882 Power Pack 76 cc heads (hopefully you are not running flat top pistons, if so the 56 cc Vortecs would put you in detonation with pump gas).

If you are running flat tops, you will need a 76 cc head such as the '993 (has steam holes from factory for the 400), or the '71 Z/28 head number 3973487. With the exception of the steam holes these are identical heads with right facing stairs cast in the front of the head. But even with a 76 cc chamber you will still be running close to 10 :1 with an iron head (93 octane only).


Larger Dave

I if so the 56 cc Vortecs would put you in detonation with pump gas).

I'm not trying to argue here but I always thought vortec heads had the 64cc chamber:confused:

Thanks for all of the information.

How does the combustion chamber's size affect performance?? I know the common sizes are 64cc and 76cc. What are the advantages and disadvantages? Can late model "vortec" heads work on an 70's block?

thanks

Jack

Vortec is a family of engines (started with the ad campagin to beat Ford at the "We sell more trucks game". As a family the heads are available in 56 cc and 64 cc and 72 cc depending upon the application and engine size. The small 56 cc heads are off of a 305 and every one likes this small chamber head because it raises your static compression ratio. This is great way to wake up a mid eighties 7.75:1 dish toped piston powered 350 with 76 cc heads installed. However it is a real quick way to get you to the 11.0:1 range with a flat topped piston and the longer stroke of the 383/400.

You should shoot for a static compression ratio of about 9.5:1 max for a carburetored pump gas engine driven on the street (even then expect to pump High Test 93 octane). If you browse through a piston catalog you will see that pistons come in three flavors now; dished, flat tops, and domed. With the same compression height (a word that is used to express stroke and rod length dimensions) for a given bore (305, 350, 400 to name a few small blocks) you will see nine to twelve sets of static compression numbers depending upon what piston and head combination you choose. This gives engine designers choices for rod length, stroke, bore size, and combustion chamber volume when specifying an engine (there are compromises and trade offs associated with each of these choices).

Most of the aftermarket head manufactures offer at least two "street" heads with advertised differences in combustion chamber sizes (they have standardized on the 64cc small chamber and the 72 cc big chamber). I say advertised because often they sell only one or the other and hope no one notices the difference. And unless you CC'd the head odds are you wouldn't notice an appreciable difference. Because of this they err on the side of a head that is too big, because they are very aware of the damage that will be caused if you get an internal combustion engine into detonation (that pining metallic noise a diesel engine makes accelerating next to you from a light).

Once you get into detonation the engine must cut back on timing, richen the mixture, or reduce compression to get out of it. Modern computer controlled cars use knock sensors and a 50MHz processor to monitor and change fuel mixture and engine timing allowing them to run 93 octane gasoline with 11.0:1 static compression. You are not fast enough to change the tune on a car manually 50 million times a second, so we must reduce compression when we build them. The combustion chamber size is one of the choices we initially make.

Chevy's Vortec heads can be used on any first generation small block, the only difference is in the intake manifold which has a different bolt pattern (fewer of them at a different angle) than the old design. The advantages of the new computer designed and manufactured Vortec head are the phenomenal flow bench numbers below 0.400" valve lift (very few engines have cams with more than that; and the valve spend 70% of it's open time at or below 0.400" inch lift). Now no one races flow benches, so what does this mean? It means great throttle response, with lots of tire shredding bottom end and mid range torque. The problem is it uses a push in, rather than a screw in rocker stud mount, just like every other production head Chevy has ever made including the ones found on Z/28's and early Corvettes. The second thing people complain about is that they go into coil bind at about 0.500" lift; which isn't to bad as very few cams for the small block have over 0.500" lift. Finally people complain that the castings are light weight and their isn't enough metal left in the heads to hog them out at their local head grinding shop. Like I said they out flow most every head made as is.

Combustion chambers effect more than static compression. Their shape and the actual placement of the valves in the chamber effect performance. Finally there are differences in spark plug angle and placement. The small block Chevy uses a 23° degree wedged shaped chamber from the factory. There are 18° and 15° heads but we will leave them out (race only). The Vortec head has a kidney bean shaped chamber to enhance turbulence (called swirl in the ads). Anything that keeps the fuel and air mixed and turbulent promotes a fast and complete flame propagation across the cylinder for more power. Race car heads have nearly flat heads with tiny heart shaped chambers for this reason.

The intake valve is moved closer to the center of the chamber on the Vortec than earlier heads and the spark plug though not angled (like on race heads) is moved towards the exhaust valve for a better flame kernel. Speaking of valves, they are swirl polished stainless steel with a tulip head just like on the race car head (though not sodium filled, or made of titanium). The exhaust valve is a Inconel treated valve, with beryllium valve guides. Sounds exotic doesn't it. The 3973487 head I recommended was designed in 1969 by engineers with slide rules (calculators hadn't been invented yet, or computers as we know them for that matter) and was "state of the art" at the time.

Hope I haven't bored anyone to much, and that this answers your question.


Big Dave

This will be going into a 400 SB. The possible combination will be 882 heads, cam, 750 Holley, and an Edelbrock Performer.

I am hoping to achieve more power without compromising a decent aggressive idle (not too irrate or irritating), streetable for a weekend car and a nice cruise, and the ability/confidence to be able to occasionally burn some rubber on the street.

Will a set of rebuilt 882 heads and the cam make a difference? I currently have stock heads, and an unknown "mild" cam.

I appreciate any advice. Thanks!!!

My Partner (the guy with the '71 Nova :D ) has a very similar engine in his '67 El Camino and it flat hauls. Here it is:

- 400 small block, stock crank and rods with forged pistons
- 882 heads with 1.94/1.5 valves
- Comp Magum 280H cam and lifter set
- Comp Pro Magnum full roller rockers #1301
- Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
- Holley 3310 750 vacuum secondary carb
- Dynomax 1 5/8" x 3" ceramic coated headers with 2 chamber flowmasters
- Accell HEI ignition
- Th350 trans with a TCI Saturday night special converter 2000 RPM stall
- 10-bolt with 3.08's

This truck is his daily driver and is very well mannered! It will drive anywhere and will spank most anything that pulls up next to it except for the really fast cars. A great budget combo that is "Real World" tested!!! Your Nova is lighter and would be faster yet. :D

Good Luck

My Partner (the guy with the '71 Nova :D ) has a very similar engine in his '67 El Camino and it flat hauls. Here it is:

- 400 small block, stock crank and rods with forged pistons
- 882 heads with 1.94/1.5 valves
- Comp Magum 280H cam and lifter set
- Comp Pro Magnum full roller rockers #1301
- Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
- Holley 3310 750 vacuum secondary carb
- Dynomax 1 5/8" x 3" ceramic coated headers with 2 chamber flowmasters
- Accell HEI ignition
- Th350 trans with a TCI Saturday night special converter 2000 RPM stall
- 10-bolt with 3.08's

This truck is his daily driver and is very well mannered! It will drive anywhere and will spank most anything that pulls up next to it except for the really fast cars. A great budget combo that is "Real World" tested!!! Your Nova is lighter and would be faster yet. :D

Good Luck


Thanks Big Dave and Motorhead62. I appreciate all of your input and information. Is there a site with casting numbers, specs and information????? What, how and why is there a fear about cracking some of them??

There are too many combinations and setups to chose from. I'll definetly look into your friend's 67 el camino setup. How does it idle??....It must sound awesome. This is a great site!!! Thanks guys......I'll take any information or advice I can get.

Jack

Bookmark this page:

http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

As to why heads crack. That is usually because someone got them too hot and then cooled them too quickly. (someone some where overheats engine, boils out the coolant, then puts in cold water to get to were you want to go).

GM is always trying to get a lightweight casting because it saves them money in terms of nodular iron and it increases the miles per gallon by reducing the overall weight of the vehicle. (or to compensate for the added weight of the next addition of the "can't live without" option). Thin wall castings are more prone to cracking because there is less material there to resist the thermal stresses placed upon the heads.


Big Dave

thanks for the info, I didnt realize there were so many different versions of the vortec heads...I learn something new everyday....thanks again:)

They also apply the Vortec moniker to LS-1, LS-6 heads as well even though they won't interchange onto the gen I & II SBC. Like Yogurt (Mel Brooks) said in "Space Balls" "It's all about marketing, marketing, marketing!"


Big Dave

Ok, since we're discussing "cam" and "heads".....What about gear or chain drive??

Here is another question that came up. What is the difference between hydraulic, solid, and a roller cam? How can I tell what I have? Are there any some distinguishing marks or designs?? What setup do you need in order to run each combination?

Thanks guys!!

Jack

Solids are easy, it doesn't compress, because it is solid steel.

Hydraulic rollers have to have either a flat spot machined on the top of the tappet for a dog bone retainer, or they will have bars that look like a solid roller if aftermarket. The bars and the dog bones serve one purpose, to keep the roller in the bore with the wheel (roller) on the cam lobe. (A roller that goes sideways will take out the cam in moments, self-destructing as it takes out the cam.)

Flat tappets are not really flat. They are concave on the bottom and get that way in the first 25 minutes of their life span as they wear in and seat. Each lifter (tappet) has to stay on the exact lobe of the cam it came off of. They are a matched set that stay together for the life of the cam.

Hydraulic flat tappets are hard to tell apart from solids once they are full of oil. You can lean on the top of a hydraulic tappet and it will gradually collapse as you force the oil out of the piston bore (internal to the lifter) through the bleed hole (small orifice on side of lifter). Once the oil is out as you remove the pressure it will quickly pop back up due to an internal spring and flapper valve that is now sucking air instead of resisting compressed oil.

To run a roller cam you need roller tappets (either factory dog bones (limited to about 0.500" lift) or the bar type sold aftermarket. You can run solid roller tappets on a hydraulic cam with about 0.018" gap, it is pointless to due so since you are giving up about 0.020" inch lift lost at the at the valve. Conversely you can attempt to run hydraulic rollers on a solid cam, and it will work if you stay below the RPM were failure occurs due to the hydraulics collapsing in the attempt to follow the more aggressive solid grind. A roller run on the correct cam is the best solution, and it plays to the strengths of each system. The hydraulic roller gives maintenance free performance which is up to 13% more efficient than a similar flat tappet hydraulic grind (exact same cam card specs). The Solid roller is the 800 pound gorilla of the racing world, has the highest range of operating RPM, with the most lift. It requires special everything when maxed out (specialty springs, retainers, roller rockers, usually shaft mounted, glimmer style timing belts instead of chains, rev kits and special light weight solid roller tappets on a custom steel billet reduced circle (to get those huge lobes to fit inside the cam bore) cams). Did I mention none of this is cheap.

The cheapest solution is a flat tappet hydraulic cam. There are hydraulic flat tappet grinds out now that were reserved for a solid flat tappet cam only twenty years ago (improved metallurgy and spring winding technologies). Your next cheapest is a flat solid cam, which is still en-vogue in sportsman racing (because of class rules), it's only draw back is that you can not run the radical grinds of a roller as the tappet would dig into the flanks of the cam lobe rather than riding up the lobe, and it requires occasional maintenance to adjust the valve's lash.


Big Dave

A simplified way to look at them...

Hydraulic Flat Tappet-Inexpensive/simple/limited perf (OEMs don't even use this now)/rpm limits of ~6000 or so.

Solid Flat Tappet-Inexpensive/simple/decent perf/much less rpm limited

Hydraulic Roller Tappet-OEM's use predominantly for MPG (less friction) and low end power as well as high end)/significantly more expensive than flat tappets/still rpm limited to ~6500 (although I turn my LT4 to 6900 with a rev kit and beehive springs)

Solid Roller Tappet-Much more expensive/typically don't like street use/no rpm limits/did I mention expensive!

I was sold on roller...solid for my Nova, but just couldn't justify the easy 1000 bucks for quality components that will live on the street predominanty. Used a 'modern' solid flat tappet and am super happy...for the cost it is dirt cheap! I even find the valve adjustment much less tedious than the hydraulic (I had run a CC 280 Hydraulic, but now a CC XS282 Solid)...:)

How can I tell what type of camshaft I have, and what type of lifters I need? Are all the camshafts the same, and able to run with any type of lifters??

Easy...

99% sure your cam currently is a flat tappet hydraulic-most 'old' cars are this unless a relatively super high performance car (ie L88/L89/L78/etc)

More definitive is see if you can compress the lifter-if it does a bit-hydraulic-this takes up the clearance-hence they are quiet.

Diff between roller and flat...the roller tappet has to have someway to keep it from rotating in the lifter bore-either 'dog bones' or guides or something...as the little wheel only wants to roll in one direction. Flat tappets are typically just little metal cylinders that DO rotate in the lifter bore.

Sounds like purchasing a book on high performance engines is the ticket for you level. Seeing pictures, etc worked wonders for my knowledge to learn the basics.

All cam manufactures will say you have to run the correct lifter with the correct cam...some have done solids on a hydraulic, but that isn't the way they were designed and may not help.

Good Luck!

Thank you for the information. Any advice is helpful and appreicated. I am just hoping that the setup I have......is "correct" and will help improve performance, and not do the opposite.

I have NOT torn apart my engine yet, but have all the parts needed in my garage. The only part that I am unsure about is what lifters to use. From the what I have read from the post's....I have a set of solid and hydraulic. The part that I was wondering about, was if my cam required "specific" lifters.....or a recommended set-up.

From what I can see and have read, it is obviously a standard cam (the speed-pro) that can run with either set-up. (solid or hydraulic)

Let me know if I am in-correct in any way.

Thanks again, and...yes...a book or some intense internet research would help me out. Hands-on experience and knowledge from other people from this site is just as good....if not BETTER!!!!

So-cal Jack

To clarify, a camshaft is ground for a particular type of lifter, it is ground for a solid lifter or a hydraulic lifter-never for both.

You can buy lifters from Comp Cams (for instance) and use them on a Speed Pro camshaft, but they have to be the correct type (solid or hydraulic). I'm not familar with Speed Pro...best to call the company and inquire.

Books are good solid info-published that is not really up for debate...forums are full of morons like me who know a little and attempt to assist, but certainly don't know everything. In other words, one has to be careful what one sees on these-sometimes they unintentionally bark up the wrong tree, etc.

:D

Thanks L48M20. I will have to look into my cam specs, and most likely call the manufacturer.

Does anyone know a site or webpage that has sound samples of different cam setups?

71Nova400, If your 400 is all stock when you remove the heads you will find the piston is at least .025" from the top of the block and the pistons are dished. The factory used steel shim head gaskets and 76cc heads. The combo is not very hi perf friendly. Your choice of cam and heads needs to take into consideration the piston depth in the bore, the type of gasket you are going to use (I have not been able to find a steel shim gasket for a 400 like the factory used). The composition gaskets can be as much as .035" compressed thickness and will really rob you of power. Do some research on "quench" before diving into your motor. It is a vitally important aspect of making power.

When I built mine I consulted with a machine shop that was familiar with the 400sb. My machinist has built several for his own vehicles. We started with a taller piston and decked the block to give zero height, that is piston flush with top of block at TDC. I am using resized stock rods and stock crank. I have stock heads with mild work done to them. Static compression is 9.4:1 with dished pistons. My cam is a mild dual pattern with lift at .462 I and .469 E. Duration is 218 I and 224 E and has 110 degree lobe seperation. All of the power is made below 5000 rpm's which allows me to use the stock bottom end. Not to say you need to do all this work, but the 400sb is a bit different than the other small blocks and just bolting on heads and doing a cam change may be disappointing. Mine is making around 400 hp and 500 ft lbs of torque and is very streetable. The numbers are from the machinist engine built the same and dyno run at 7000' elevation. Maybe down here in the desert it might do better.

Thank you for all of your information. When I started to research head gaskets....they range from $15-$50. Is there really a difference? Does the metal bushing in rubber gasket make a difference over the cork or multiple copper and metal layered head gaskets??

I have NOT been able to to tear open my engine yet to find out what type of pistons I have. Is the quench very significant or noticeable in performance.....or very minor?? I just need to know so that I will have some knowledge before I invest in some parts.

Thank you

so-cal Jack

By the way, are there any sites with "sound" samples, clips or files with different chevy cam, head, and engine setups??

Thanks

Here (http://www.theoldone.com/archive/quench-area.htm) are some old posts on the subject. It is important and will affect the power your engine makes if for no other reason than where you can set the timing to avoid detonation.

and an artiticle (http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0605phr_pump_gas_secrets/spark_plugs_fuel_management.html) from Popular hot Rodding.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words so here is really big post.

This is a picture CompCams Hydraulic Roller lifters for a SBC 400 which was not originally factory equipped with hydraulic rollers (known as retrofit rollers).

http://s45.photobucket.com/albums/f63/3454545/?action=view&current=DSC02847.jpg&refPage=60&imgAnch=imgAnch68

This is a picture of my SBC 400 with the factory dish topped pistons

http://s45.photobucket.com/albums/f63/3454545/?action=view&current=DSC02619.jpg&refPage=100&imgAnch=imgAnch104

This is a picture of the flat topped forged pistons I have installed now with a zero deck height. I'm using the FelPro composite gasket because with a zero deck the gasket thickness is my quench area.

http://s45.photobucket.com/albums/f63/3454545/?action=view&current=DSC02845.jpg&refPage=140&imgAnch=imgAnch145

This is a picture of my 6.00 H-beam forged chromemoly rods which pushes the piston pin up into the ring package.

http://s45.photobucket.com/albums/f63/3454545/?action=view&current=DSC02813.jpg&refPage=80&imgAnch=imgAnch85

This is a fuzzy picture of my Cloyes adjustable true roller timing chain.

http://s45.photobucket.com/albums/f63/3454545/?action=view&current=DSC02843.jpg&refPage=140&imgAnch=imgAnch152


Finally this is a picture of my bottom end as there will be questions about 2-bolt 4-bolt and aftermarket 4 bolt conversions later I suspect.

http://s45.photobucket.com/albums/f63/3454545/?action=view&current=DSC02834.jpg&refPage=140&imgAnch=imgAnch153


Big Dave

Awesome pictures!

I was wondering what the biggest cam I could run without the use of a stall convertor. If I need one, it's not a problem. I am just trying to "avoid" tearing into my tranny right now. A simple.... remove of the current cam, and replace with a new cam...is what I am hoping.

If anyone knows of the max duration and lift without using a stall convertor....and get the best performance....please let me know.

Thank you..

so-cal Jack

You can run any size cam you want with a stock convertor, you just won't be getting the full potential of engine off the line. Plan all of your mods for the finished project and procede as money/time/wife allows.

Thank you for the advice. I want a decent sleeper, that can spank anyone that wants to race.

By the way a Nova body isn't the best choice for a sleeper, and before you start asking for an appearance on Pinks a response to the "that can spank anyone that wants to race" comment.

I run 10.45 or less on the motor alone and dip into the 9.30's or as low as the nine-teens with a little judicious use of giggle gas. I have spent a little over $42,000 on my sleeper so that no one suspects what they are up against until it is too late (not in any kind of muscle car body).

Just to keep you up at night wondering, I have met many other sleeper's owners which have their cars all running well into the low sevens; but these guys are serious racers; some even run at sanctioned tracks (got to get those times from some where). I just roam the street for the joy of it.


Big Dave

I'm still wondering if anyone knows if there is a site that has different camshaft "sound clips". I am trying to find a camshaft that is not too aggressive, but yet...not too weak.

thanks

so-cal Jack

What sound are you looking for? At idle is when a cam will sound noticably different. Some will be smooth and others can range from a mild lope to "it won't idle under 2k rpm's". You have to select the cam profile to work with the rest of the engine components or you could wind up with a wicked sound at idle and no power. I like the sound of this set up (www.novaresource.org/exhaust.wav) it is a 327 with an L79 cam running thru a Flowmaster exhaust.
Lots of factors determine how an engine will sound, compression, cam, headers, exhaust. If your going for a sleeper have it idle smooth and run quiet ;) And most importantly..do your racing at the track not on the street!

34 years ago I owned an 1968 SS Chevelle with an L78, M22 and 4.10 12 bolt posi. There was nothing I lined up against at our private strip that could beat it. One night a 69 Camaro showed up. It was so quiet it was hard to tell whether or not it was running. We paired up and I got beat by 3 car lengths. My car was turning low 12's at the dragstrip and I watched him pull away wondering "what the heck is in that". Only after the run would he open the hood. It appeared to be a stock big block, but had many go fast $$ inside. The reason it was so quiet was because it had 4 mufflers, 2 on each side. He took great pride in his sleeper and I learned no matter how fast a car is, there will always be one faster. It is real humbling when that one neither looks or sounds fast.

Thanks Philip. It is true, that there will always be a faster car out there. Especially if you have the cash to put into it. I guess I am really wondering if the cam I have in my garage is worth installing. I am the second owner of my Nova, and it has a 400SB. I DO NOT know the current compression, if it has a stall converter, or what type of pistons it has. I know it has 76cc heads.

It idles smooth, and runs very well on the upper rpm range. Actually, it pulls very hard, and sounds aggressive. The previous owner had the intention of making it a sleeper, and installed a mild cam. The part I need to know...is what cam specs it has.

So this all leads to me wondering if the 204/214 duration cam I have in my garage.......is "less" of the cam that is currently in my Nova, or a little more aggressive. I don't want it to be too choppy or irrate, but a little more than mild would be fine. This is why I am trying to find a site that has different cam sound files, so I can judge if I like it or not.

At times, I tell myself...."if it runs great now, then wait until something breaks before tearing it apart". Which is true...as I might consider to keep it as is, and just wait until it's a "must" to start replacing parts.

Thanks for the information.......

so-cal Jack

Jack if it runs well now just drive it and enjoy. During the enjoyment time you can give some thought to how you would rebuild the motor when the time comes.

The cam specs can be determined by using a degree wheel and a dial indicator. The degree wheel will show you the open/close events, degrees of overlap and using a dial indicator lift can be measured. Like you have realized it isn't necessary to do anything to yours until it is time to overhaul or make more power.

400sb are excellent torque motors. I was just getting ready to build a 402 BB when I ran across my 400. It was in a 72 Impala 4 door. I bought the whole car and trailered it home. I tuned the engine but could never get it to run smooth. It seemed to have a miss but not on any particular cylinder. Since I had it running as good as it was going to I took the Impala for a drive. I slammed the pedal to the floor opening up the 2 bbl carb and was amazed at how it launched. tranny shifted to 2nd and chirped the tires and again in 3rd. I made up my mind that the poor running small block was worth rebuilding. Upon tear down I found the cause of the miss. The original timing gear was nylon teeth cast onto an aluminum gear. Several of the teeth were missing and the cam was running behind the crank. Even with the valve timing way off the little motor pulled a 4200 lb car in a way that was impressive. I gave you a run down of the work I did to mine, most of it to get the piston height optimal. Knowing it will pull better now than it did in the Impala I need to get the Nova together and take it for a drive.

Thanks Philip, I'll look into those measurements. For the time being, I'll just have fun with my Nova "as is".

Thank you for your quick responses...

so-cal Jack

It's never to late to add a degree wheel to your inventory of car tools. You will also need a dial indicator (Cam companies and Proform Tool sell kits) that will allow you to degree the cam.

You can always degree a cam (even after it has been installed for years) to find out what the cam specs are. It is also very useful as a tool to determine top dead center (sometimes the timing tabs are not exact).

If your going to remain in the hobby for long you will acquire a few engines with mystery cams and with a degree wheel and dial indicator you will soon know what the specs of the cam are without ever taking the cam out to look up the number. No more mysteries.

One final thought if you want a rough idle you want a short LSA cam. If you want a sleeper you want a wide LSA cam. With the same lift and duration the wider LSA will be the sleeper of the two choices offering performance with stealth.

Big Dave

There are so many cam variations, different engine set-ups, etc... I am always learing something new, either with a tool, in a book or magazine, from a friend, from a carshow, and especially from the internet. (this site especially)

Very helpful information. Thank you.

So-cal Jack