The only parts I have right now are the holley black fuel pump and bypass regulator with fuel return.
I am thinking of getting a fuel cell over the old gas tank I have. But I have a few questions.
Will I still need the fuel sending unit from the factory GM tank? And how do I go about putting a gas gauge indicator in the fuel cell?

You can buy a fuel cell with a GM sending unit already in it.

see if any of this is of use to ya: http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuelish-tendencies-understanding-fuel-pressure-and-volume-spg-140.html


that link is posted in the fuel/electrical/water etc section at the JollyRodder site ;)

Also think about materials. Things like raw aluminum (as cast or drawn without a protective coating) is susceptible to the acidic attack of alcohol present in today's fuels. Though a solid line will definitely be cheaper per foot than an AN teflon hose covered with braided stainless steel will be. The standard AN lines will rot with alcohol (they are neoprene or rubber based) so you have to use the more expensive teflon lined hose.

Also filtration is becoming an issue. Paper filters also turn to pulp with alcohol in the fuel, because alcohol absorbs water out of the air and is a bipolar molecule just like water. So you will need to use a series of wire mesh screens of decreasing size (down to the micron level) to filter your fuel. Good news is these filters are easily taken apart and blown clean with air and can be reassembled and reused practically forever.

If you use a solid fuel line then it will need to be securely mounted to the frame as aluminum work hardens very quickly. So your terminal fittings (the AN fittings at the end of the tubing) need to be anchored to the frame with flex hose going to the terminal fitting and not to the aluminum tube. I use AN 10 for the supply and an AN 8 for the return with solid aluminum 1/2 inch ID tubing on the supply side and 3/8 inch ID tubing for the return. The return line should enter the tank away from the pick-up and be routed to the bottom of the tank to prevent aeration of the fuel by the returning gasoline.

Because AN fittings are restrictive (smaller bore than the line they terminate) I use the next bigger size fitting to terminate the tubing. Try to avoid a 90° fitting if at all possible two 45°'s or three 30°'s are better if you can work them in (it's only money). I buy old AN fittings by the bucket from retiring racers getting out and sort and clean up and test them for leaks. They may not be shinny red or blue but they still work (for the most part) and I will have only a hundred bucks in an entire bucket full of parts that sell new for $25 to $30 bucks each.

I learned about alcohol from a methanol racer who sold me his complete fuel set up from the tank to the pump and up to the injector hat for only $250. All of the lines leaked like a sieve at 0 gauge pressure, but the fittings were all still good, if beaten and all scratched up. You can by a can of touch up paint if it bothers you, but I invented rat rods and beaters a long time ago (if it doesn't make it go faster it isn't important was my philosophy).

Plumb the return line with a gauge at the return line regulator so that you have 4-7 psi at the carb, and no more. Four pounds will keep any carburetor drowning in gas. You only go up to 7 psi if you have a long run to the carb and that is only then needed to overcome the effects of acceleration. I have a gas pressure gauge plumbed into the car's interior (requires a remote sender) to keep track of my pressure and set it as low as I can get away with.

Big Dave

Here's my 15 Gallon Cell with a Sending unit in it:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d180/Bad68Nova_/101_0204.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f276/gearjammerexpress/X072updates019.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f276/gearjammerexpress/X072updates023.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f276/gearjammerexpress/X072updates024.jpg

-10 from cell to filter
-8 from pump to regulator