Just wondering what tuning steps you guys running cal-tracs take......
Pre-load adj, upper, lower hole etc. trying to get this thing to 60 ft.
Any suggestions?

wish i could help but im to cheap i just use slapper bars

I don't have any real experience either. bump this to top, maybe one of the guys who has these will chip in.

I have spent some time tuning my Cal-tracs, problem is, I'm running street tires. If you are on slicks, I don't think I'll be much help. Here's what I got though.

When I installed mine I had them too tight. Everytime I hit the gas the tires blew off. The cure was to adjust them so there was room for a nickel to fit between the spring and the spring stop bolt. The tracs where hitting too hard and blowing the street tires before enough weight had transferred. I am using the lower hole.

I will be installing CalTracs on my car this week along with the Split Mono leaf springs form Calvert.
I hope to be racing it again in a couple of weeks, so as I learn what it want's I'll chime back in.
I also have anew driveline vibration that has cropped up, and I need to see what's up with that as well. Happens right before the finish line....not fun.

So tell us more about the car. Engine, ET?, MPH?, Shocks? Springs? Tires?
You know the good stuff.

Ron

Youre the first person to ask, so sure..............

I purchased a stock zz 502, put on a 825 race demon, and went racing a couple times 2 yrs ago, best was 11.80 @114 in 1/4 and 7.46 at 92 in the 1/8. Then the tranny blew, so I beefed up the rear end, changed cams,
put a new tranny in it, new converter, new carb,new intake,roller rockers,
and I'm sure other things I cannot think of, and the car went 10.91 at 125
off the trailer, jetted down 2 sizes and went 10.81, at 126, but this is with my best 60ft of 1.53. Thats the performance side of it, heres some specs:

zz502
crower .612 .636 .248 253 @.050
air gap intake
comp cams stainless roller rockers
1050 race demon (best deal ever on e-bay 400.00) brand new removeable sleeve version)
turbo 350 Heavily beefed up art carr components
tight 3200 9.5 converter
3.73 10 bolt, (Beefed up, but who knows how long it will last)
dont know the weight of the car, guessing around 3400lbs?
Thats most of the things I can think of, nothing special really.has great driveability,need to tune the carb a bit more, among other things.

And Ron, thanks for the interest I have followed your posts over at chevelle tech, and Love your car!!!!!!!

Wow, huge improvement you made! You must have been pleased!
As near as I can tell you did the right stuff.

I'm wondering though....with a 1.53 and 126 trap speed, I think you should have been closer to a 10.5 or 10.6? Are you shifting it too high?
These big engines don't care if you shift at 5500 or 6000 from 1-2. 6500 would be pushing it I think. Just curious because my buddys Chevelle went 10.64 @ 126 with a 1.57 60 ft. He is right at 3500 lbs as well. 502 with a similar cam and AFR heads. (He copied me!)

I assume you run slicks?
Good shocks help. As do loose front springs, good shocks up front as well.

10 bolt is an 8.5". Very much the same as the 12 bolt. If it's the 8.2", I'd be changing it.

Thanks for the comments about my car. Much appreciated. Your car sounds equally as cool!
I hang out over at TC because of the Big Block freaks there. Also at Team Camaro...beacuse after all, they are leaf spring cars.
Us Nova guys are outnumbered though. Pays to be different.

Anyway, keep tweaking. Try a bit leaner jet. Fiddle withthe timing. 38 total works well, maybe even more.

Keep good records.

I think you are on the right track all the way.

Ron

Thanks Ron...

Yeah 8.5 10 bolt, I have a tranny brake in the car as well, have not used it though. I ran these times with mt's new dragradial, and full exhaust shifting about 56001st 5900 2nd. Have cheap dragshocks in front, want to upgrade, the car just doesn't seem to transfer well, not spinning, but not moving a whole lot either, oh yeah and I also put in those rancho 9000, shocks, they did seem to help. I was watching bracket racing on tv, and there was couple cars running 10.50's and high 10. 40's at 125 with 60ft in the high 1.40's, so I know theres big room for improvement, and I also drive my car to and from the track.

Us nova guys need to stick together, cause we are outnumbered.................

I'd probably shift a bit higher, especially into 3rd.
Your short block is stout.
Try 6000 and 6500 and see what happens. Hope you put in good valve springs.
If you haven't already, remove the front sway bar, and if you have stock rubber front bushings, remove the serrations. Then double nut the lower a-arm bolts so everything moves free. Up top, do the same, and then loctite the a-arm bolts just short of tight. Every thing needs to move free.

Beyond that....I'm an idiot. Hence the move to CalTracs and the split mono springs. I try not to throw money at it, but I need to do something.

Kudos on the drive to the track....a real street car!

Keep us posted.

Ron

72nova502, having the force transfer link in the UPPER hole provides a harder hit to the tires, whereas having the force transfer link in the LOWER hole provides a softer hit to the tires.

As far a preload is concerned, running a gap between the springs and the Caltracs provides a HARDER hit to the tires. The more turns you put into the force transfer link, the more preload you are putting on the springs, thus giving you a SOFTER hit to the tires.

Thanks WFO, getting the car out soon, so some tuning should be in order. Will try different settings and see if anything helps. Are you the same wfo thats over on steves nova site?

Thanks WFO, getting the car out soon, so some tuning should be in order. Will try different settings and see if anything helps. Are you the same wfo thats over on steves nova site?

Yup, the one and only!

WFO... The man, the myth, the legend.:p

A note on the Cal Tracs, last weekend was my first time racing with them on. I was trying to adjust them in the dark and after checking the adjustments yesterday what I thought was about 1/2 turn or less preload was actually more like 1 full turn.

Point of my little story is to do a little playing around with them before going out so you're pretty familar with the adjustments before you hit the track. Couple of things I didn't do...Try running 0 preload or even an air-gap depending on how you launch. Try some different launch techniques, off idle/flash, foot brake/varying RPM's, etc.:)

I also believe from my past experiences with the CalTracs that you need to be on perfectly level ground in order to make correct adjustments.
And you need to buy a couple of 1-1/8" end wrenches and cut one end off so you can use them under the car.

I have my new split mono springs installed. Now I have to machine my spacer blocks to set the ride height and provide the proper clamping of the spring. I have milti leaf spring perches.

Then, I have to modify the shock mounts, I have bottom plates from a 70 Camaro. And they are different than the Nova.

Bolt on? what's that?

Ron

I didn't see it mentioned, but make sure you have someone in the drivers seat that is about the same weight as you when you make the adjustments. I didn't the very first time around the block and they were way off. :)

Maybe it says that in the directions, but who reads stinkin directions.:D

Good tip from Ron about the short wrench, it is very tight under there.

I didn't see it mentioned, but make sure you have someone in the drivers seat that is about the same weight as you when you make the adjustments. I didn't the very first time around the block and they were way off. :)

Maybe it says that in the directions, but who reads stinkin directions.:D

Good tip from Ron about the short wrench, it is very tight under there.

Or, if yer like me and keep forgetting to make some short wrenches, I back the car up on the trailer ramps to raise it off the ground, then I can use my regular wrenches.

Or, if yer like me and keep forgetting to make some short wrenches, I back the car up on the trailer ramps to raise it off the ground, then I can use my regular wrenches.

I would think that would mess up the weight on the rear.....????

Ron

I would think that would mess up the weight on the rear.....????

Ron

Why's that? They already have their initial setting, I'm just adding/removing a 1/2 turn or so of preload.

Just a quick note,any one wanting the full skinney on tunning caltrac,s should talk to John at his webb site... www.dragstuff.com (http://www.dragstuff.com) WFO visits often, and knows Johns Nova is now ready for some 8 sec runs. His best 9.01 at 153 I believe.That was at KCI, so his set up works.

Why's that? They already have their initial setting, I'm just adding/removing a 1/2 turn or so of preload.

Got ya.

Ron

I run Cal-Tracs, as well as 2 other Nova street cars in our camp. All are running mono-leaf springs (1 with stock-style replacements, 1 with stock ones, and mine has Landrum mono-leafs).

Mine are set-up in the lower hole with 1/2 turn preload in the RH side, Ranchos on #5 setting. Best of 1.537 60 foot on footbrake at 1800 rpm launch, 1.520 60 foot off transbrake at 3400 rpm. 3500 lb car with a 383 small block, TH400 with a 10" 3800 stall converter and 3.73 gears in a 12-bolt. Tires are either 28 x 10.5 M/T ET drag stiff sidewalls or 275/60/15 ET Street radials, but most racing is done on the slicks.
I ran slapper bars for years and we only had to do a few minor tuning / shock adjustments on the first 2 nights, and since then (4 months) have been left alone.

The other 2 Novas are set-up the following:

-72 model, 434 small block, bottom hole with 1/2 turn preload in the RH side, Ranchos on #5 setting, best of 1.421 60 foot on off transbrake at 3400 rpm. 3250 lb car with powerglide, 10" 3800 stall converter and 3.89 gears in a 9-inch rearend. Tires are 28 x 10.5 M/T ET drag stiff sidewalls.

-71 model, 496 big block, bottom hole with 1/2 turn preload in the RH side, Ranchos on #5 setting, best of 1.412 60 foot on off transbrake at 3400 rpm. 3400 lb car with powerglide, 10" 3800 stall converter and 3.73 gears in a 12-bolt. Tires are 28 x 10.5 M/T ET drag stiff sidewalls.

Check out my webshots link under my race shots for a good picture with them on my car.

Derek

Pretty interesting.
I had my car set the same....lower hole, 1/2 turn preload pass side, CalTrac split monos, (took the Landrum's off), 496", slicks and the car was blowing the tires off.
But.....I have 4.10 gears and a TH400. Radically different low gear ratio.
So as I've said....some guys bolt stuff on and it works, and I bolt stuff on and it doesn't.
All cars are different.
Great results for you and your buds though. I'll get there.
Ron

Pretty interesting.
I had my car set the same....lower hole, 1/2 turn preload pass side, CalTrac split monos, (took the Landrum's off), 496", slicks and the car was blowing the tires off.
But.....I have 4.10 gears and a TH400. Radically different low gear ratio.
So as I've said....some guys bolt stuff on and it works, and I bolt stuff on and it doesn't.
All cars are different.
Great results for you and your buds though. I'll get there.
Ron

The big block 71 used to have a TH400 and 10" 3400 stall convertor. Did fine but would sometimes spin during the summer months with hotter track temps (we had 135 degrees on one occasion last year). Switched to glide and a 10" 3800 stall convertor and the car still leaves within .01 on the 60 foot but a lot less violent. It still pulls the wheels hard, but it's a much smoother launch.

What tires are you running?

Derek

The big block 71 used to have a TH400 and 10" 3400 stall convertor. Did fine but would sometimes spin during the summer months with hotter track temps (we had 135 degrees on one occasion last year). Switched to glide and a 10" 3800 stall convertor and the car still leaves within .01 on the 60 foot but a lot less violent. It still pulls the wheels hard, but it's a much smoother launch.

What tires are you running?

Derek

Really worn out Hoosier 10x29 slicks.
I'm beginning to think not the best choice in the first place.....and definately bad when done.
Unfortunately I bought more..........

Ron

Really worn out Hoosier 10x29 slicks.
I'm beginning to think not the best choice in the first place.....and definately bad when done.
Unfortunately I bought more..........

Ron

If the slicks are worn, you may just be spinning your wheels (pun intended). I know plenty of people hooking great with those.

I believe the compound is too soft. The car literally tears the rubber off. Feathered like crazy. And this starts after the first 20 passes, and gets worse. Especially when it's hot weather.
I do short burnouts to boot.
I'll be stopping the delivery and getting the radials.
Not street rubber, real radial slicks.
Ron

We've had really good luck with M/T ET Drag stiff sidewall tires, you might give them a shot too.

Derek

ron rotate your tires every other race and see if that helps .ive run hoosies and they hook as good as any but dont last ner as long as good years or mickeys.goodyears are to expensive for me now so its mickies from now on.

I rotate them every race.
We will se if the radials do better.
I also moved the CalTracs to the top hole.
Also going to remove the front shocks and see if the front end is still loose and free. Seems to be stiff now......no matter how the front shocks are set.
I'll get there.
Ron