View Full Version : wiring the Flyer's 377 on the run stand


SHIFTY4
Mar 25th, 08, 10:57 PM
Hey NovaGuys & NovaChicks,


i'm going to be wiring up the 377 on the engine run stand here in a day or so and i'd like to confirm what i'll be doing...

there will be no charging system...

Negative... battery to ground. (engine & stand)

Positive... 10ga. wire from + on Battery to switch, 14ga. wire from switch to solenoid. 14ga.wire from solenoid to ballast resistor, other side to coil. coil to distributor.



does that sound correct, anything i'm missing ???


thanks ;)

67 Nova Boy
Mar 25th, 08, 11:13 PM
Hey NovaGuys & NovaChicks,


i'm going to be wiring up the 377 on the engine run stand here in a day or so and i'd like to confirm what i'll be doing...

there will be no charging system...

Negative... battery to ground. (engine & stand)

Positive... 10ga. wire from + on Battery to switch, 14ga. wire from switch to solenoid. 14ga.wire from solenoid to ballast resistor, other side to coil. coil to distributor.



does that sound correct, anything i'm missing ???


thanks ;)

Oil and filter!! :D

Dave #3
67 Nova Boy

SHIFTY4
Mar 25th, 08, 11:17 PM
oh man, it's just not my day :rolleyes: ;)

67 Nova Boy
Mar 25th, 08, 11:21 PM
oh man, it's just not my day :rolleyes: ;)

All sound good John. You do have a radiator right??

Key start set up??

Dave #3
67 Nova Boy

SHIFTY4
Mar 25th, 08, 11:25 PM
i have a radiator donated by Klean63 "Bill", i'll use the ignition switch from the Flyer.

67 Nova Boy
Mar 25th, 08, 11:37 PM
i have a radiator donated by Klean63 "Bill", i'll use the ignition switch from the Flyer.

I can hear it from here John!! I remember when I fired the 302 up......I worked the Z/28 pump over via "How to Hot Rod the Small Block Chevy" Book and put the pressure spring in backwards. Boom ....The filter blew off the block!! :sad: 7 Quarts of oil when all over the floor. Well....I cleaned all up and did it again!!!!!!! Filter boom and oil flowing!! :thumbsup: Dumb A$$ I say to my self!! Ok...Take pan off and see what's going on?? Have no Idea what went wrong. Talked to friend and he says....give me the pump and I'll look at it. He says later...Ok by me but I turned spring around!! I had 100 psi of oil in 2 seconds before and now.....Filter stayed on and oil in block!! :D So....I did worse then you John with the oil stuff!! :thumbsup:

Dave #3
67 Nova Boy

SHIFTY4
Mar 25th, 08, 11:43 PM
oh man, that sounds like a learnin' experience ;)

i'm taking a tip from Jeff (Stock Z/28) and will be running a 1/2hp electric motor to turn the water pump... i can then run the water pump after engine is off to continue the cooling circulation ;)

67 Nova Boy
Mar 25th, 08, 11:49 PM
oh man, that sounds like a learnin' experience ;)

i'm taking a tip from Jeff (Stock Z/28) and will be running a 1/2hp electric motor to turn the water pump... i can then run the water pump after engine is off to continue the cooling circulation ;)

You have ALL the tools John!!

I'm learning allot from this site! ;) Good luck this week.

It's bed time for me...almost 10:00. up at 3:00 for work.

Dave #3
67 Nova Boy

patman
Mar 25th, 08, 11:50 PM
Positive... 10ga. wire from + on Battery to switch, 14ga. wire from switch to solenoid. 14ga.wire from solenoid to ballast resistor, other side to coil. coil to distributor.

Mmm...not sure that's right. I'm assuming you're running a points-style distributor here, no HEI or anything.

Battery + should connect to 'bat' terminal on the switch.

Battery + should also connect to the big lug on the starter with a battery cable.

Battery - should connect to a clean solid spot on the block with a battery cable.

Solenoid 'S' connection should be on the 'start' terminal of the switch.

Ballast resistor should be connected between 'run' terminal of the switch and the coil +.

The Coil - gets connected to the distributor.

Extra (optional) style points: connect the 'R' terminal on the solenoid to the coil + to bypass the ballast resistor while you're cranking for a hotter spark.

I'll see if I can draw up a quick picture...

SHIFTY4
Mar 25th, 08, 11:52 PM
Pat, it will have an HEI... i'll be using the Dave's small body i stole from the Flyer for the JollyRodder...

SHIFTY4
Mar 26th, 08, 12:16 AM
Pat, will that be the same with the HEI ???


i appreciate the schematic ;)

patman
Mar 26th, 08, 12:17 AM
In that case, it's even simpler. Shouldn't need a ballast (unless Dave specifically told you to use one...) Since it's a small body, I'm assuming it uses an external coil though:

SHIFTY4
Mar 26th, 08, 12:20 AM
yes, you're right... Dave said NO ballast. and yes, external coil ;)

i was thinking of a points set up when i typed originally... was just off the top of my head. i see i missed a detail or three :rolleyes:

i see this one is much simpler... Dave uses a plug on the dist too that makes connections real easy.

Pat, i appreciate the assistance. ;)

patman
Mar 26th, 08, 12:25 AM
Pat, i appreciate the assistance. ;)

No problemo!

69NovaSS
Mar 26th, 08, 12:40 PM
i'll use the ignition switch from the Flyer.

Isnt it a tight fit to get the test stand under the hood of the flyer?;):D

SHIFTY4
Mar 26th, 08, 01:51 PM
depends on how high i jack it up, right ??? :D

patman
Mar 26th, 08, 02:08 PM
i have a radiator donated by Klean63 "Bill", i'll use the ignition switch from the Flyer.

Not worth taking it out (unless it's out already...) Go to the hardware store and buy two wall switches. One is the master power (goes between bat and coil) the other is the starter (goes between bat and 's' terminal on starter)

Flip the main power on, flip the starter switch on until it starts, then turn the starter switch back off again. Heck, drill a hole in the toggle for the starter switch and stick a rubber band in to pull it back to the off position if ya want.

patman
Mar 26th, 08, 02:20 PM
Is it running yet?

SHIFTY4
Mar 26th, 08, 02:48 PM
uhhh, you mean like a "momentary" switch ??? :D

the ignition switch is out... so no biggie. i also have a universal switch just in case. the toggles are a good idea too...


NO, it's not runnin'.... yet :D

patman
Mar 26th, 08, 04:35 PM
uhhh, you mean like a "momentary" switch ??? :D

Yep, but they prolly don't make momentary house current light switches that you can pick up cheap at your local h/w store...so that was an improvisation.

A decent pushbutton switch should work too, poke around at the store to see what they have. A 110v lightswitch will definitely handle the current (which is why I suggested using 'em) but you should verify that the pushbutton you pick can do the job.

patman
Mar 26th, 08, 04:40 PM
Ideally you could use something like this:

http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=74131

...but that's way overkill unless you're planning on doing a bunch of engines and reusing the stand.

http://www.competitionproducts.com/images/74131nologo.gif

SHIFTY4
Mar 26th, 08, 04:41 PM
10-4 Thanks "Sparky" :D


we have oil pressure ;)

SHIFTY4
Mar 26th, 08, 04:43 PM
i'm hoping once the 377's installed in the Flyer to finish up the 327 i have and leave it on the run stand... just ta have fun with it 'til i find another project.