View Full Version : Charging Problem


lehrchoppers
Sep 9th, 07, 10:33 PM
Hello I am new to this site. I have a 68 nova with a 350 in it. I am having problems with the charging system the alternator is not charging the battery. I have replaced the alternator, the voltage regulator and the postive battery terminal and still no luck. I get 12.95 vlts. when the engine is running. Any suggestion on where I should go from here?
:sad:

Philip
Sep 9th, 07, 11:31 PM
What is the battery voltage with the engine not running? An alternator will only put out about 1.5 volts above what the battery has in it, up to about 14-14.5 volts.

Jorge78
Sep 10th, 07, 06:39 PM
+1, check voltage before engine starts and once more when running, if it don't change up you alternator may not charging.

lehrchoppers
Sep 10th, 07, 09:43 PM
The battery puts out between 12.2 and 12.3 volts.

70ssBB
Sep 21st, 07, 01:00 AM
go to autowire .com and check their schematics. See what you got and how it is wired. Bet it is something basic that takes months to figure out like me. Grounding and regulator wiring.

Philip
Sep 21st, 07, 02:46 PM
Terry what happens to the running voltage when lights are switched on? Does it maintain the 12.95 or drop below baseline voltage?
It sounds like the regulator does not have a good ground or may be defective. Is it a solid state or mechanical regulator?

70ssBB
Sep 23rd, 07, 01:33 PM
That was Americanautowire.com Also try "Madelectrical. Google these with the word "diagram" and it outa get you there.

A question for Big Dave or any others.

On single wire conversions with alternators I see some diagrams that show the plug in to the old external regulator splicing the two outside wires together and isolating the two inners, with the whole plug in disconnected. others say just unplug and tape it off. What are you powering by splicing the two outers? In searching alot of forums and manufacturers I can not seem to get a clear answer. Also I have seen where the S10 single alternator can be wired like a 3 wire.

Thanks

Big Dave
Sep 23rd, 07, 06:19 PM
All alternators with an internal regulator (everything made in the last twenty years) does not need the old mechanical regulator in the circuit in any way. Unregulated the alternator will peak at about 19.8 Volts, which will cook a 12 volt battery (it will also burn up the alternator). What are you measuring the voltage with? If you are using a digital multimeter, then I assume your alternator is either fried or not correctly wired. If however you are relying upon the factory gauge it doesn't mean a thing. I can say this because my factory voltmeter reads consistently from 8.6 Volts off to 11.4 Volts running. It has worked reliably (if erroneously) for the past 370,000 miles on my tow vehicle (1987 K20 Suburban). A Fluke reads differently and tells me all is well (that and I would have been hard pressed to cover that distance with a dead battery).

I would remove the mechanical voltage regulator and rewire the system to rely upon the internal regulator. There are numerous diagrams online to guide you, or you can purchase a completely new wiring harness with modern upgrades (heavier gauge wire to handle the larger amperage draws modern cars require, with new insulation that will not crack and fall off as the wires move about due to vibration or modifications):thumbsup:.

Big Dave