elkyoned
Sep 9th, 07, 02:43 PM
I have a 1974 Chevy Nova with a Remanufactured 350 2bbl and new carb and fuel pump all just over a year ago. I have only had the car for about 2 months and I noticed yesterday that when I started off from a light it seemed to be missing kinda like a plug wire was unplugged but I checked and they were fine.
I did check the carb and found a rod from the flap that closes on the top of the carb (I can't think whats its called right now) and it looked like it goes to a coil thats mounted on teh manifold and it was disconnected so I reconnected it and started it up and reved the motor and it sounds great but when I took it out for a drive it still seemed to miss .. any ideas on what I can check next?
Big Dave
Sep 9th, 07, 04:01 PM
The rod is a link to your thermostatically controlled choke (the flapper thing on top of the carb is the choke). It is not part of your problem. Your problem is most likely a vacuum hose not correctly connected to the vacuum advance pot on the distributor. It should run from a tube found on the bottom of the base plate around the front of the carb to the shinney cone shaped metal can on the distributor. I am assuming that you have already adjusted your idle bleed air meter screws to optimum by means of a tach and a vacuum gauge (only kidding you adjust by ear for highest RPM with least amount of throttle). And your motor is not running lean on acceleration. As I remember the accelerator pump shot is controlled by the angle of the bend on the accelerator pump rod on a Rochester 2G but it has been decades since I have played with one.
Big Dave
elkyoned
Sep 9th, 07, 05:34 PM
I will check the vacuum line maybe it just came off or started leaking because before yesterday it was awesome to pull away from the light.
and it seems if I pull away from a light slower its not as noticeable , mainly just pullinga way fast. thanks for your help
Philip
Sep 9th, 07, 10:47 PM
Your original idea may not be far from wrong. Wires and plugs can and do go bad. Just being plugged on does not mean operational.Using an ohm meter check ythe resistance in the wires. Shorter wires will have less than longer ones and the difference is relative to the length. While the wires are off, pull the plugs and see what they look like. On a new or rebuilt engine I like to check the plugs at 4000 - 5000 miles just to see how the engine is doing.
elkyoned
Sep 11th, 07, 07:19 PM
I checked the wires and 1 that was up against the exhust manifold and has some slight damage to the insulation. I may just repalce them all anyway.
I have noticed that it only seems to start missing after I drive it for maybe 10-15 minutes? seemed like maybe a choke issue but I pulled over and opened the air cleaner cover and it looked full open. I wasn't sure but I thought that was ok.. and after it sat while I shopped for about 20 minutes and then drove home without any hestitation or missing.
I did just get gas but I would think if it was bad gas it would act up all the time and not just when its warm.
I should check the plugs anyway just to make sure since I'm not sure how many miles the car was driven after the remanufactured engine was installed but it been just barely over a year.\
Thanks for all of the suggestions
Dave
jim454
Sep 17th, 07, 06:37 AM
I would replace the wires with a quality set . Change the plugs,check the fuel filter. Also check to see if your manifolds have flapps in them, sometimes when the springs get old they don't work properly and restrict exhaust flow .