I am changing over from an automatic to a LENCO 4 Speed. So, I need to install a complete clutch set-up. Everything was going fine till I got to installing the Z Bar (some people refer to this sometimes as the Bell Crank). I ordered the special bracket for the block (since the block is not an original Chevy II block) and it seems to fit OK but, where the Z Bar is supposed to bolt up to it - the Z Bar is way too low and the hook-up for the clutch fork rod is way too far in close to the block. Plus the Z Bar runs into the frame, and there is no way the Z Bar could ever bolt to the frame!! I've tried every position, every angle, everything!!! I think you get the idea. What I need is some photos/information on how your clutch linkage is installed. Even photos of the rod coming out of the firewall. I'm not sure the Asembly Manual shows Pictures/Diagrams of the clutch linkage and I don't really want to spend $20 to find out. If anyone can help me out, I would be eternally grateful. Hell, I'll even give ya some cash. Thanks. Rick

these are from my '64 assembly manual...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/64Flyer/clutchpedalassy.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/64Flyer/ZBar2.jpg

the engine bracket for a non-ChevyII block...

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/64Flyer/yb-2.jpg


i hope i helped and cash is not necessary. if it does help, just pass it on ;)

I had the same problem when I converted mine over. The only thing That worked for me was the bracket that mounts to the frame had to be turned around. Instead of the slot facing the rear it faces the front.

I am currently doing the same thing only I'm installing a 5 speed. And to make things worse I have a Chassisworks sub frame and if I turn the bracket around it hits the inner finder. I already have to cut into the inner finder so that I can gain accsess to the frame bracket. But like you the bell crank seems to be to short and the linkage from the peddal needs to be heated and twisted to go into the hole in the bell crank with out forcing it. Please let me know if turning the frame bracket around worked for you. Thanks Randyreymannr@comcast.net

here's a repost of the non-ChevyII block clutch bracket ;)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/64Flyer/clutchbracket-1.jpg

You can buy a ball pivot point from Scoggin-Dickey for either a Chevelle or a Corvette.

http://www.sdparts.com/product/SDCBV/ClutchPivotBallBracketforCorvettes.aspx

Or make your own for your the Chevy II (the ball location changes with the car chassis so if you are using a non-Chevy-II block the hole could be in the wrong place; early SBC blocks had two drilled and tapped clutch ball pivot holes, but newer castings do not).

A similar bracket can be made for the chassis using the Chevrolet factory drawings that Johnny has already published from the assembly manual. Then the factory bell crank (Z-bar) should work.

The reason the factory went with hydraulics was to get away from the mechanical linkage which takes up a lot of room, and is susceptible to misalignment due to engine torque. As motors were increasing in power every year from the original 1955 265 two barrel it became obvious that a bell crank was obsolete.

Most aftermarket SFI listed explosion proof bell housings are drilled and tapped for a clutch slave hydraulic cylinder. Your Lenco will bolt right up to the bell housing.

Lenco and Liberty clutchless shifting transmissions are very hard on stock parts as the gear change is nearly instantaneous. Additionally, they were designed for a 800 to 900 RPM drop at most between shifts as drag racing engines are very peaky an live in a very narrow torque band at the top of the RPM range of the motor. How are you installing this tranny? Solid mounts on the front of the motor, mid plate and rear trannsmission mount all tied to your frame? Automatic transmissions cushion their slower shifts with a spring powered hydraulic accumulator to keep from ripping out the rubber mounts used in stock cars.

Big Dave