Question, Was a ballast resistor a factory item on a 66 SS car?:confused: I'm having some starting problems and I'm trying to eliminate one item at a time.

Harv

Harv no ballast resistor was used. Instead Gm used a resisitor wire from the firewall junction to the + side of the coil. With key on it will read close to battery voltage until a load is applied, then the voltage should drop to about 8-9 volts. To assist in starting there is a bypass wire from the R terminal on the solenoid to the + side of the coil that supplies a full 12v during starter operation.

Philip,

It did have a ballast resistor installed, I removed it last fall.

Here's the problem:

I've had starting problems for many years. The problem is that when I start the car, drive for a little while and shut it down, it will not restart. No clicks, nothing. If I sit there for 10-15 minutes or get a jump, she fires right up. I thought that it was my starter solenoid due to heat from the headers. So I replaced the solenoid and starter and wrapped the setup in a heat shield blanket. No change. Replaced battery. No change. Regulator. Nada. Ignition switch. Nope. I've started it up and disconnected the positive battery cable. Stays running. Alternator appears to be fine. I even took the Alternator in and had a load test done on it. A-OK. Ditto for the battery. I've left the positive cable connected, disconnected the negative lead and reconnected it, looking for sparks that may indicate a short in the system. I've had a lot of advice, but at the end of the day, the car sits in the garage and doesn't get driven. I guess I've been too proud to just take it to someone to have it fixed, but I'm definitely wavering... Any ideas?


283, Mallory Unilite with ProMaster Coil, headers, aftermarket intake, Q-Jet.

Perplexed in the Frozen North,

Harv
:confused:

From these symptoms it would not be ignition related. It has to be something in the starter circuit. It sounds like you have checked everything except the ground part of the circuit. The ground path for the starter is thru the case from the block. Heat causes higher resistence, the extra amps from a jump might overcome a possible bad ground. Try cleaning the mount area of the starter and block and the mounting point of the negative cable. If the cable is attached to the upper alternator bracket clean the mounting points of the bracket too.

Philip,

I almost forgot. I did replace both battery cables and installed a ground strap at the back of the block (valve cover bolt) to the firewall. When I installed the new starter, I guess I thought that the connection would be good. I'll have to try and clean it and see what happens.

Harv

That resistor wire often burns open if you loose a ground. If you measure any voltage at all it should still be good to go. To check the actual condition of the wire, OHM it and compare what you get with posted values in service manual. If you have removed the started or rebuilt the motor that fresh coat of paint on the starter or the block may be interfering with a good ground. In my opinion you can never have to many ground straps. (I used to own an old Corvette and had constant battles with bad grounds from tail lights to wiper motors).


Big Dave

Thanks Big Dave,

I'll drop the starter and make sure that the connection is clean and clear. What color is the wire that runs from the R terminal on the Solenoid? What does the R stand for? So, the resistive wire and the R terminal wire should both be connected to the + terminal of the coil, correct?

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm trying to make sure that I understand how this system is actually supposed to work. I'm trying to logically eliminate one thing at a time. Where is a good source for a Service Manual? Probably should have bought one of these a long time ago.

Harv

Hey Harv no need to apologize for asking questions, thats why we are all here to help and to learn.
The wire from the R (Resistor) terminal is usually yellow and does go to the + side of the coil with the ignition feed wire.
For my Chevelles I have a couple of GM service manuals on CD as well as the printed ones. The Cd versions were purchased from Detroit Iron (http://www.detroitironis.com/GeneralMotorsavailibility.html). They have a list of selling dealers on their web site. The 66 manual covers all the car models and includes all of the following: 1966 Chevrolet shop manual, 1966 Fisher body service manual 1965 GM body, 1964-72 parts book, 1938-68 parts, 1954-65 parts. Printed manuals are available from Helm Inc (http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class%5F2=CHV&mk=Chevrolet+%26+Geo&yr=1966&md=Nova%2FChevy+II&dt=&module=&from=result&Style=&Sku=ST72&itemtype=N&mscsid=MGSTBDGM59099LCFCSCWFCXS6UNHFCT9)

Thanks, Philip.

I hope to get under the car this weekend and take a look.

Harv

Harv,
One thing you may want to check also is the wire going to the starter at firewall. When I bought my 63 it would start and run fine most of the time, then all of a sudden it would not start. A few minutes later it would start again. I noticed the guy before me had replaced the starter solenoid, but when I traced the wire I found that the wire at the bulkhead connector was down to three or four strands. I just carefully pried the wire from the connector, cut it and and soldered it to the connector and it hasn't given me any troubles since.

Just something else to check, or at least eliminate that possibility.

63AKDN,

I'll make sure that I check that as well. Haven't had a time to dig into the car yet.

Thanks for the input.

Harv

I had that same problem exactly. I put added a ford solenoid to my existing set up problem solved! The wiring details can be seen at www.stevesnovasite.com (http://www.stevesnovasite.com)