View Full Version : Ignition Switch Removal ( No Key)


jp71ss
Jan 14th, 07, 09:56 AM
I just got a floor shift 74 column and I would like to change the ignition switch but I don't have the key. Any idea's on how to remove this thing?

Big Dave
Jan 14th, 07, 10:51 AM
Most car thieves use a large screw driver. The ignition lock is made out of pot metal (Zinc mostly alloyed with a little aluminum and copper) it is soft and brittle and breaks easily. Once it is out you will have to disassemble the column to get the remnants of the switch lock mechanism out and replace what broke.

Or take the whole thing down to your local GM dealership (or a competent locksmith) and have them remove it with a paper clip and one of their fifty master keys (they have to try them all sequentially to find a fit so there will be a dealer prep and handling fee I'd imagine). Either way you will have to pay a little more to get it out.


Big Dave

Philip
Jan 14th, 07, 11:35 AM
A key is not necesary to remove the lock cylinder, but you will have to disassemble the upper part of the column. You can do it yourself but some special tools are needed; a steering wheel puller and a lock plate compressor. If you can buy or borrow these I can give more detailed instructions on how to get it out. If your in the Tuscon AZ area come by and I'll show you how :D

jp71ss
Jan 16th, 07, 10:49 PM
I guess I will just have to disassemble then. Thanks guys.

Philip
Jan 16th, 07, 11:24 PM
Ok then I guess you will need to some instruction :D
read these papers written by Jim Shea then ask questions on any part that you need clarification on.

click here (http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/01/StdColumnD&R108JL05.doc)

and the photos that go with the text click here (http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/01/StdColumnACarDisassemblyPage1.doc)

and the link to all of his info click here (http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?page_id=5)

Not trying to dodge giving the info, but I am going to bed and figured the links would get you started. I will get back to you tomorrow.

jp71ss
Jan 17th, 07, 08:39 AM
Thanks Im sure it will work. I need to replace the cancelling cam anyway.

Philip
Jan 17th, 07, 08:28 PM
Ok ready??
Remove wheel
remove plastic cover from lock plate (plastic cover may or may not be present. some are held on with screws, others just snap on)
install lock plate tool, depress lock plate and remove the little ring from the groove. It is easiest to put a small pointed pick under it thru one if the grooves in the shaft by the split in the ring, then lift and use a screw driver to start working it up towards the end of the shaft out of the groove.
Once it is out of the groove up on the shaft, release the tool and remove the ring and plate.
Next remove the cancel cam and spring.
At this point the book says to remove the turn signal switch, well I cheat a little. Remove the 3 screws and turn signal lever. Unhook the harness plug from the bracket on the lower column and just pull the switch up far enough to pull it up out of the bucket and out of the way. It saves the hassle of having to thread the harness back down the column.
Next is the warning buzzer contacts, they pull straight out.
Now is the where you have to locate the slot to release the spring loaded retainer. If you have the new switch it makes it real easy, just hold the switch up to the casting and locate the flashing that neds to be removed to gain access. Also notice the little plastic button sticking down where the buzzer contacts were. With a key in the switch this button retacts and it does make it easier to remove the switch. You will have to pull hard to get the cylinder out if you have no key. (Actually any key may work as the cylinder does not need to turn.)
Assembly is the reverse (or so they say :D )
My best time for doing this in the car from the time I sit down in the seat is 12 minutes. First one took 40 minutes. :D


Replacing ignition locks and tightening tilt columns bought a lot of parts for my projects over the years. I would never let the customer watch or wait. It was always a drop off and pick up with at least 2 hours in between. My prices were about half of what the dealership charged and made for happy customers. Another money maker was repairing columns from theft attempts for insurance companies. Since moving I have lost all my customers and connections, but the extra time is nice.

jp71ss
Jan 18th, 07, 08:56 PM
How bout I just send you my column and you can have one more customer! :D The column was removed from a 74 nova to go into my 71 so it is already out. :thumbsup:

Philip
Jan 18th, 07, 09:09 PM
Well I see now you are a bit to far away to drop by for that lesson. Not real hard, just time consuming the first time. Have you located the pullers?

Now I would be happy to do it for you if you sent it, but have you heard the story about giving a man a fish as opposed to teaching him to fish :D

jp71ss
Jan 18th, 07, 10:15 PM
I like fishing! I'm just trying to get my garage straightened out from just moving in and selling my 2 chevelles. The pullers will be no problem, time is. I'm not in a real big hurry just yet. This will be a changeover from automatic to 4 speed unless I change my mind. I need to paint my car, build an engine and do the interior too. So I will do this soon cause I want to ride this beauty! Thanks for the info, if I get it straightened out in the next couple days I will put in on the work table and tear into it, it shouldn't take too long I hope. :thumbsup: :beers:

Nova_75_77
Jan 19th, 07, 07:53 PM
when i changed mine on a 77 nova non tilt i just put a screw in the ignition and used a slide hammer // to get the wheel off you dont need a puller just screw a bolt into the hole the puller would go into and put a wrench on it and push it against the center bar in the column

Philip
Jan 19th, 07, 10:57 PM
when i changed mine on a 77 nova non tilt i just put a screw in the ignition and used a slide hammer


Although this will work there is a risk of damaging the pot metal casting and then the switch will have nothing to anchor it.