View Full Version : Removing/replacing interior firewall jute


HisHeirness23
Nov 19th, 09, 12:26 AM
What is the best way to remove and replace the firewall jute (insulation)? My heater core had a crack in it and leaked coolant all over the place. I never fully dried it, so now the floor and firewall area is all rusted. I need to get in under the dash as much as possible, but am finding it difficult to remove the rubber firewall backing to get to the jute. Does the steering column need to be removed? Thanks in advance!

woodnmetal
Jan 13th, 10, 04:34 PM
I would love to hear about this one.. I have to install mine in a 67. There is nothing there at all now.. So I am one step ahead of you by not having to remove it. Hope the column can stay put.

SHIFTY4
Jan 13th, 10, 05:58 PM
removing is one thing... replacing is another.

to remove just rip it out. you can use a razor knife and score it in chunks and remove it that way. the jute is glued to the back of the firewall pad, it also "might" be glued to the firewall. once the pad is removed whatever jute "Fuzzy" is left over that can be scraped off or a propane torch can be used (CAREFULLY) and the fuzzy remnants can be burnt away (did i say be CAREFUL if you do it this way ?)

to install the pad... sorry, removing the steering column is going to make it easier to fit the new pad... it's not a biggie to remove the column so be prepared.

once the pad is in, there are these plastic plugs that are used to install/hold in the pad to the firewall... these can be a PITA to install. one trick is to get a punch and slide a 1/4" washer over the punch then slide the punch inside the plastic plug. with a small hammer and a sharp hammer action the plug is driven through the pad and also through the firewall in one action. it needs to be a sharp SMACK to drive the plug or they get distorted and installation is then going to be almost impossible.

the punch and washer is now a tool that is used to drive the plug in... it not only drives (supports) the plug on the top/flat portion of the plug but also from inside the plug. (hard to describe typing, i hope you all understand this) without the washer the punch will poke a hole in the bottom of the plug...

here's a picture of what i'm trying to say, hope this helps.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/64Flyer/firewallpadtool.jpg

this is how i installed the pad in my '64... there were a couple places that i installed a bolt and nutted it on the car's interior side and then used a washer & nut to bolt the pad on... but the plugs are what's used from the factory, like these...

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000132a~Z5Z5Z53276~P 0.99~~~~S2UB10CDFX75333636058a~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z5000013 2A